Super fun easy route.
Start in the obvious right-facing corner just to the left of Applied Magnetics.
The first few moves are height dependent. Shorter climbers will find that this sequence feels more like 5.7 (which is incidentally the rating given in the CLASSIC 1988 guidebook "Climber's Guide to Southern California," by Hellweg & Warstler).
After about 20 feet, hang a sharp left and foot traverse the ledge until reaching an obvious hand crack. Fire up the crack, past a large roof (with thank-God jugs) to the anchor.
Just a few pieces, small up to 1.5 inches.
The top anchor consists of two 1/2" by 4" wedge bolts with chains (placed in 2004).
Christina is nearly through the crux layback of Ro...
Eugenia Davis, of Fairfield, Iowa, enjoys the open...
Rob Soto past the first dihedral of Rockoco.
Macy B, stylishly chalking up.
Jul 5, 2009
This route is probably more traveled to drop Top-ropes for vanishing flakes than anything else.
Once you make the traverse left, you gain the same easy crack system that finishes up Vanishing flakes. Bolts at top for TR/Rap
|By Joseph Stover|
From: Batesville, AR
Mar 5, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Excellent beginner trad lead (for a capable climber). There is tons of pro available, although sometimes tricky. The upper wide crack can be difficult for a shorter person, otherwise the start seems to be the crux. Super fun climb for the grade, probably a great first solo as well.