|182 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|FA: ||Richard Rossiter and Greg Carelli, 1990|
|Submitted By: ||Steve Marr on Sep 1, 2002|
Erik Marr about 3/4 of the way up Rockheads (photo...
Gillett lists this route as a 5.8R while Rossiter calls it a 5.9. Gillett is probably closer - the route isn't difficult but the scarcity of pro will make you think twice as you climb. Rockheads climbs the south-facing wall of a large, detached buttress on the east side of Batman Rock - just uphill from the base of Batman Pinnacle. The top of Rockheads deposits you at the base of Clowntime is Over and Hand Over Hand.
From below, the route looks pretty good with several diagonal cracks crossing the face. Upon closer inspection, these "cracks" are actually flaring grooves that offer limited protection (RPs and small stoppers).
Face and friction climb through the grooves to a good stance about 3/4 of the way to the top (crux). There are some marginal placements along the left side of the face. This is a good climb, but a bit spicy on lead.
Small stoppers (RPs helpful), small cams.