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Test Pilots Buttress
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Rocket Science 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bruce Burgess
Page Views: 489
Submitted By: TomCaldwell on Nov 25, 2009
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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2013 Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Start at thin right facing flake 10' left of Test Pilots. Move to a large horizontal opening and clip bolt. Pull through white horizontals and clip the second bolt. Don't fall before clipping the 2nd bolt. After second bolt move up and left through bulge placing gear. Move up and right to the Test Pilots anchor.


Location 

10' left of Test Pilots


Protection 

Draws, TCU's to #1 camalot. Rap from Test Pilot bolts.



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By BruceBurgessNC
Mar 2, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Replacing these 20 year old bolts with some re-engineering had been on my to-do list for too long, so today the job got done. There are now three SS bolts with optional gear between the 2nd and 3rd. Mandatory gear placements ensue above where the climb merges with Copilots.

If you don't want to stick clip, a #4 Cam goes nicely in the first big slot. Not P/G rated anymore.

By jlane
Mar 9, 2013

nice Bruce! Just climbed it Thursday and had the best ascent of it yet! Love the section past the bolts.

By nbrown
From: western NC
Mar 12, 2013

Thanks for the improvement Bruce. Much more aesthetic and fun to climb in it's new form.

By Shannon Millsaps
Jan 18, 2014
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This route is so good. Steep to techy face back to some steeps and a slabby finish. Thanks for the re-engineering Bruce!