Rockapella 5.7
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7 [details] |
| FA: | Brian and Vicki Smoot |
| Submitted By: | Spencer Anderson on Sep 23, 2003 |
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10/03 Rockapella (5.7)
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Description The route is the third line of bolts as you round the corner to the southwest face of Hard rock, next to Stoic Calculus and Platinum Blonde (right of the large dihedral). Fun slab climbing with cool moves over the mini roof. Good place to learn how to lead.
Protection 5 bolts to 2 bolted chain anchors.
BETA PHOTO: Just a pic of the climb with no one on it. Taken b...
| 10/03 Rockapella (5.7) Going the hard way over the...
| The photographer, Stacy Gordon, actually just miss...
| Ethan Blanchard, at the roof.
| Ethan Blanchard ("made it").
| BETA PHOTO: Adam at the small roof on Rockapella with Shaun G....
| looking up at that fun roof
| View from the top of Rockapella looking through th...
| At the top of Rockapella looking at the base. Can...
| Lindsay Johnston gracefully pulling the roof of Ro...
| Tosh Peters on Lead going straight over the roof P...
| Rocky Maloney on the layback move under the roof P...
| Tosh Peters on Lead
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By Tosh Peters From: Park City, UT May 12, 2008
| i heard there is a 5.10a second pitch to this, is this true? |
By Skyler Penrod Jul 8, 2008
| This route could be a good first lead for many. |
By Chauncemaster From: Sandy, UT Oct 4, 2008 rating: 5.7
| Fun climb to learn how to lead or for beginners on top rope. Mostly slab climbing on great holds up to a small roof crux right near the end. Good bolt placement protects the roof move so new leaders should feel pretty safe. |
By Maranda Moore Apr 29, 2009
| This climb is great for beginners, and a fun warm up climb. its gnarly. |
By devin027 Jun 3, 2009
| yes i know that their is a second pitch to this but i have not climbed it yet, i just looked over and was able to see two bolts, sometime soon i am going back to climb the second pitch and ill post up what i find out about it if i make it up there |
By devin027 Sep 12, 2009
| yes there is a second pitch i don't think it is 10a though its more like a nine. traverse right two bolts after the chains and then stem you can then place a bd #1 in the gap in the rock, make sure you put a sling on it. than swing around the corner and stand up on the platform and there will be another bolt. than do the scramble up to the chains of platinum blond. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell From: PG, Utah Oct 16, 2009
| Did the second pitch some years ago. Was pretty fun but I remember it being over pretty quick. Still, it's worth doing once. I also remember telling my belayer that I thought it was 5.9. |
By Andrew Seegmiller From: Orem UT Jan 2, 2010
| i hate the first pitch, found it pretty boring. but the second pitch i actually really enjoyed. thought it was lots of fun. |
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Apr 30, 2012
| The first and second pitch can easily be combined for a nice long pitch. After pulling the first roof (staying left of bolt makes for more of a challenge), clip everything including anchors with long slings until you get up under the final roof to minimize rope drag. |
By DCrane From: Taylorsville, Utah May 27, 2012
| Took a fall when my foot slipped off pulling the roof - thought I had two good hands but my fingers were too numb to know for sure. Climbing in the snow is certainly interesting! Seems like a solid lead - the 5.7 route goes right around the roof correct? Maybe it was just the conditions but the roof seemed like maybe 5.9, 5.10 |
By RyanArnold Jun 5, 2012
| I have the gear left on the climb when the scout leader fell yesterday. Message me with gear description so I can get it back to you. I've seen several accidents on this climb over the years... |
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