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Beer Walls
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CWI T 
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Diagonal Chockstone Chimney T 
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Lichenbrau T 
Live Free or Die T,TR 
Neutron Brew T 
Pat Tricks T 
Pats' Blue Ribbon S 
Pegasus T 
Radioactive T 
Rockaholic T 
Seven Ounces T 
Sword T 
Tequila Mockingbird T,TR 
Turbocharge T 
Wandering Lunatic S 

Rockaholic 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Meschinelli, Dave Hough, and Chuck Turner (5/6/83)
Page Views: 5,242
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 24, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Lindsay Duca getting into the business of Rockahol...

Description 

At the far left end of the Lower Beer Walls is a left leaning finger crack that splits an otherwise polished face--This is Rockaholic.

Start on low hands and smeary feet to the left of the crack below the obvious finger crack. Easily climb up and right, pulling into the fissure using a few high feet out left and a good hand hold out right.

From here, the beta for the route is simple: Try to keep your left foot pasted to the polished left face while fighting through the rattly and flaired fingercrack.

When the crack ends, move left around the steep block and up to the slung tree above.


Location 

Far left end of the Lower Beer Walls.

Protection 

Gear to a red Camalot. Many small pieces in the red, yellow, and green Alien sizes.


Photos of Rockaholic Slideshow Add Photo
John Hoffmann on Rockaholic, Lower Beer Wall
John Hoffmann on Rockaholic, Lower Beer Wall
condition in early spring
BETA PHOTO: condition in early spring
Myself leading rockaholic. I used the crack for feet through the crux section instead of the face. Still felt 5.8 and still felt fun.
Myself leading rockaholic. I used the crack for fe...

Comments on Rockaholic Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 29, 2014
By doligo
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The bouldery start is often wet, but the crack stays dry. It has nice "cheater" constrictions for your fingers.

BETA ALERT: you can also layback the crack with better feet on the face to the right, which feels at least a grade easier but gear placements are blind.
By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 25, 2011

We were TR'ing Equis 5.7 (about 15 feet right) and successfully linked up the beginning 30-40 feet of Rockaholic (minor swing), traversing right on horizontal cracks to join Equis for its best section(s). Got the best of both climbs (IMO) on top rope with no gear directionals needed. Fun, fun, fun.
By Ian Dibbs
Jul 8, 2011

Also started on this route then traversed right to join Equis ... makes for a fun climb.
By ddriver
From: SLC
Sep 27, 2011

Did this route last week and that tree is beyond dead. Topped out. Later in the day saw a group of 6 or so TR'ing off the tree. One of you locals should cut the rap slings before someone gets hurt.
By Eric G.
From: Saratoga Springs, NY
Apr 24, 2012

Anchor is now two nice bolts.
By Matt Baer
From: Boulder, CO
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Weird start but once you get in the crack great finger jams and a few hand jams to the top.
By Drake Pregnall
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

The bolts that were the anchor next to the tree have been chopped. Just a heads up.
By Will Stat
Jul 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This was my first 5.8 trad lead when I was 14 years old. I had no clue what route it was but it was so beautiful I had to climb it. I only had half a dozen cams at the time so I held on and placed small stoppers all through the crux section. It's an excellent climb and one of my favorite leads.
By Dominic Rickicki
Sep 29, 2014

What's the news on that anchor that was built in the alcove the dead tree is in? The pitons and nut seem pretty solid to me but I haven't actually used it. Climbed the route for the first time last spring and my partner decided to pass it up and go to the top. I climbed it again this past weekend and when I got to it I decided again to pass it up only because the new guide book says the cruddy top-out is necessary. I don't know how long it has been there either. I did see the party after us top-roping off of it though.
By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Sep 29, 2014

Regarding the anchor: The original route went to the top. A convenience anchor appeared on the tree after the "good" climbing, and was used for many years until the tree died. A bolted anchor briefly appeared in place of the tree, and was removed. The gear anchor appeared more recently, and didn't make it into the guidebook. Sometimes these things are moving targets.

Did you really go to the top because the guidebook said to? (Btw, it actually doesn't say that.)