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Rockaholic 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Meschinelli, Dave Hough, and Chuck Turner (5/6/83)
Page Views: 4,344
Submitted By: Chris Duca on May 24, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Lindsay Duca getting into the business of Rockahol...

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Description 

At the far left end of the Lower Beer Walls is a left leaning finger crack that splits an otherwise polished face--This is Rockaholic.

Start on low hands and smeary feet to the left of the crack below the obvious finger crack. Easily climb up and right, pulling into the fissure using a few high feet out left and a good hand hold out right.

From here, the beta for the route is simple: Try to keep your left foot pasted to the polished left face while fighting through the rattly and flaired fingercrack.

When the crack ends, move left around the steep block and up to the slung tree above.


Location 

Far left end of the Lower Beer Walls.


Protection 

Gear to a red Camalot. Many small pieces in the red, yellow, and green Alien sizes.



Photos of Rockaholic Slideshow Add Photo
condition in early spring
BETA PHOTO: condition in early spring
John Hoffmann on Rockaholic, Lower Beer Wall
John Hoffmann on Rockaholic, Lower Beer Wall
Comments on Rockaholic Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jul 19, 2013
By doligo
Jul 6, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The bouldery start is often wet, but the crack stays dry. It has nice "cheater" constrictions for your fingers.

BETA ALERT: you can also layback the crack with better feet on the face to the right, which feels at least a grade easier but gear placements are blind.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Apr 25, 2011

We were TR'ing Equis 5.7 (about 15 feet right) and successfully linked up the beginning 30-40 feet of Rockaholic (minor swing), traversing right on horizontal cracks to join Equis for its best section(s). Got the best of both climbs (IMO) on top rope with no gear directionals needed. Fun, fun, fun.

By Ian Dibbs
Jul 8, 2011

Also started on this route then traversed right to join Equis ... makes for a fun climb.

By ddriver
From: SLC
Sep 27, 2011

Did this route last week and that tree is beyond dead. Topped out. Later in the day saw a group of 6 or so TR'ing off the tree. One of you locals should cut the rap slings before someone gets hurt.

By The Lingering Fart
Apr 24, 2012

Anchor is now two nice bolts.

By Matt Baer
May 17, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Weird start but once you get in the crack great finger jams and a few hand jams to the top.

By Drake Pregnall
From: Lake Placid, NY
Nov 12, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

The bolts that were the anchor next to the tree have been chopped. Just a heads up.

By Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady
Feb 28, 2013

The bolt anchors were nice while they lasted, however I spoke a local that seemed to be in the know of this chopping, Apparently they were chopped to keep the huge parties from overusing this great climb I guess while it was bolted big party's were set up TRing it for many hours. The fear of polish and notion of a trip or 2 is OK but hogging all day it is not superseded the ease and saftey of bolted anchors. Cannot say I disagree with the chopping one bit but I am not a local and I did enjoy not having to to either use that rotting stump, small tree, or walk off.

By Will Stat
Jul 19, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This was my first 5.8 trad lead when I was 14 years old. I had no clue what route it was but it was so beautiful I had to climb it. I only had half a dozen cams at the time so I held on and placed small stoppers all through the crux section. It's an excellent climb and one of my favorite leads.