Rock One Rock Climbing
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GPS: |
40.404, -105.51963 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
Page Views: | 6,751 total · 28/month |
Shared By: | Leo Paik on Aug 29, 2004 · Updates |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Raptor Closures lifted 7/28/23
Details
Per Brent Frazier: the raptor closures have been lifted in the Lumpy Ridge and Loch Vale Areas ( nps.gov/romo/raptor-closure…)
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Each year, Rocky Mountain National Park initiates temporary closures in certain areas of the park to ensure that birds of prey will be undisturbed during their breeding and nesting seasons. These closures begin on February 15 and continue through July 31, if appropriate. Monitoring by park staff and volunteers have determined that all remaining closures can be lifted on July 28, 2023.
Per Matt Coghill: the Golden eagle nesting activity has extended Lumpy closures through Aug. 15, 2022 on Sundance, Thunder Buttress, and Needle Summit!
Per A.Eaton: the raptor closures have been lifted as of 6/4/2022 at Lumpy for the following formations:
Twin Owls
Rock One
Batman Rock
Batman Pinnacle
Checkerboard
Lightning Rock
Per the Denver Post: as of Feb. 15, 2022, Checkerboard Rock, Lightning Rock, Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Sundance, Thunder Buttress, The Parish, Bookmark Pinnacle, The Left Book, Bookmark, Twin Owls, Rock One, and the Needle are closed for raptor nesting. These closures will continue through July 31, 2022 if needed.
All areas [were] OPEN to climbing for the 2021 post July season.
Closures ending July 31:
Batman Rock, Batman Pinnacle, Lightning Rock, Checkerboard Rock - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Sundance - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
The Book Area: Left Book, The Bookmark, Bookmark Pinnacle, and the entire Book formation (including Renaissance Wall, Isis Buttress, Pages Wall Area, and J-Crack Slab Area)- nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Thunder Buttress and The Parish - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Twin Owls and Rock One - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
Cathedral Wall - nps.gov/romo/planyourvisit/…
When closed, the closures include the named rock formations and the areas surrounding the base of the formation. This includes all climbing routes, outcroppings, cliffs, faces, ascent and descent routes, and climber's access trails to the formation.
Areas not listed are presumed to be open. These closures will be lifted or extended as conditions dictate.
Description
There are a series of rocks just W of Twin Owls and E of Batman Rock that are referred to as 'Parking Lot rocks.' Of these, some of the larger ones are referred to as (going E to W) Rock One, Basic Rock, Twin Owls Glacier, Rock Two, Rock Three, Rock Four (The Stupa), Rock Five (aka Dike Dome), Rock Six, & Tower Rock (aka Fan Rock - for its distinctive fan-shaped blades). While none of the rocks have received much attention, Rock One does have a enjoyable low-end difficult route that may please some in search of an easy romp off the well-beaten track or those seeking to introduce multipitch Lumpy Ridge climbing to a younger generation.
Also, there is an interesting-looking rock behind Rock One for the exploring types.
Note, this crag is often closed during raptor closures until July 31. Check the closures before heading here.
Also, there is an interesting-looking rock behind Rock One for the exploring types.
Note, this crag is often closed during raptor closures until July 31. Check the closures before heading here.
Getting There
From the new parking lot, go west ~0.6 miles on a well-marked trail to the old Twin Owls parking lot. Find this approximately 300 foot tall rock off the Lower Twin Owls climbing access trail. Shortly after you would go right to the Conads/Organ Pipes area, you can find a fainter path going left towards Rock One. Follow this up, occasionally down, over a few large dead trees and quickly you are there. As a landmark for the Rock One Route, 5.4, you will find the start a short distance R of a large dead tree leaning against the base. Also, you can find the start just left of a large left-facing dihedral bulging out from the lower angled rock. ~35-40 minutes to approach.
Alternatively, per L Kap: when you arrive at the broken rock at the base of Lower Twin Owls, go left (west) along the base. Find and follow a faint trail that continues west - do not go up the forested gully for Organ Pipes/Conads. Follow the trail up, occasionally down, over a few large dead trees and quickly you are there (about 1 mile from the parking lot).
The descent is to walk off to the NNE from the summit.
Alternatively, per L Kap: when you arrive at the broken rock at the base of Lower Twin Owls, go left (west) along the base. Find and follow a faint trail that continues west - do not go up the forested gully for Organ Pipes/Conads. Follow the trail up, occasionally down, over a few large dead trees and quickly you are there (about 1 mile from the parking lot).
The descent is to walk off to the NNE from the summit.
Classic Climbing Routes at Rock One
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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