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Rock Of Ages

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Celestial Gate T 
Center Dihedral T 
Days of Heaven T 
Desolation Angels T 
Greensleeves S 
Hats Off T 
Heavenly Daze S 
Multiple Blues T 
Nameless Demons T 
Original Sin T 
Rope Rider T 
Telekinesis S 
Wasp, The T 

Rock Of Ages 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.35209, -105.65432 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Tony B on Aug 12, 2002
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The main wall of Rock of Ages is a pretty massive ...

Description 

Rock Of Ages is a fine granite wall in Rocky Mountain National Park. Unlike the High peaks, this wall has a short approach and is a good cragging wall. The climbs vary between 1-3 pitches in length and are generally from 100 to 200 feet long. If you find yourself in the Estes Park area and it is too late for a long and committing alpine route, consider this wall as an option. Be warned in advance that most of the climbs here are 5.10+ or harder.

The finer grains and lack of inclusions mean that this rock is very high friction in general, and not too hard on the hands. The granite of this wall ranges from scaly in some spots to bullet-hard and perfect in others. For the most part, the rock is clean, but on the lower right the rock is very scaly and difficult to smear or edge upon.

The face predominantly faces south, although the dihedrals on the East and West ends get shade at one time or another for most of the day. You may be able to climb in the shade for a part of the day, but the must-do classic there, Days Of Heaven (10d), sits in the sun all day. Some other notable climbs include Nameless Demons (10a), Center Dihedral (10d), Celestial Gate (11-) and a few solid 5.12s, such as Rope Gun With Silencer (5.12), that are too hard for me to comment on in much more detail than to say "good top-ropes." The original trad lines were done in the early 1980s, with some additional development occuring only recently, nearly 20 years later.

L->R:

Upper cliff:

A. Greensleeves, 12, 1p, bolts & gear.
B. The Wasp, 13-, 1p, 95', gear.
C. Telekinesis, 13, 1p, 100', bolts.
D. Unknown, 100', bolts & gear.

Lower cliff:

A. Baptismal Font, 11, 1p, gear.
B? Left Out, 11+, 1p, TR.
C? Multiple Blues, 10+ R, 1p, 50', gear.
D? Finger crack, 11, 1p?
E? Tipendicular?
F. Desolation Angels, 11+ R, 2p, 150', gear.
G. Heavenly Daze, 12, 1p, 100', bolts & gear.
H. Nameless Demons, 10, 2p, 130', gear.
I. Celestial Gate, 12-, 3p, 200', gear & bolts.
J. Rope Gun with Silencer, 12+, 3p, bolt, pins, gear.
K1. Days of Heaven, 10+ PG-13, 3p, 200', gear.
K2. Locks of Rages, 12+, 1p var, gear.
K3. Hats Off, 12, 1p var, gear.
L. Center Dihedral, 10+, 2p, 200', gear.
M. Original Sin, 10, 1p, 70', gear.
N. Rope Rider, 12-, 1p, 80', pins & gear.

Further east:

A. Every Pitch Tells A Story, 10+ R, 3p.
B. Got To Get Out Of This Place, 10+.

Way further east.

C. Red Rover, 11-, 2p, gear.

Crack Wall

D1. Orange Crush, 8+, 4p, gear.
D2. Variation, 10-, gear.


Getting There 

Drive in to the Fern Lake Trailhead, to the very end. Park here and hike past scads of fishermen... (Are there really any fish left here?) ... for a little over a mile until you come to some huge boulders through which the trail is pinched. Just after passing these boulders, you can look up and to the right (North) and see a few solid walls of rock to the North/Northwest. Scamble up a talus field to approach the lowest of these, which is the lower section of Rock Of Ages. This hike will require about 1 hour.


Climbing Season


13 Total Routes


['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',5],['5.11',1],['5.12',5],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Rock Of Ages:
Nameless Demons   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 130'   
Center Dihedral   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Days of Heaven   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 3 pitches, 200'   
Desolation Angels   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 2 pitches, 150'   
Celestial Gate   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Hats Off   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   
Greensleeves   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
Heavenly Daze   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   
The Wasp   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Trad, 1 pitch, 95'   
Browse More Classics in Rock Of Ages

Featured Route For Rock Of Ages
Approaching the crux step across on pitch 2.

Days of Heaven 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Rock Of Ages
This route is on the Rock of Ages, the first of the cliffs mentioned in the Fern Canyon intro. It is one of the best shorter routes I've ever done, offering fantastic, clean cracks and also some really wild 5.10 moves. Most of the protection is perfect, except for the first pitch. Hike a mile from the Fern Lake trailhead to the Arch Rock campsite (just past the Arch Rocks-- massive boulders, right on the trail, which have tumbled from the cliff. There is some really good bouldering in this a...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Rock Of Ages
Photos of Rock Of Ages Slideshow Add Photo
Rock of Ages from Arch Rocks.
Rock of Ages from Arch Rocks.
Rock Of Ages is great. Nice exposure and some wilderness backdrop from the good rock - here as seen from P1 of 'Days In Heaven.' Photo by Tony Bubb, 8/'02.
Rock Of Ages is great. Nice exposure and some wild...
The first "business" on Days of Heaven.
The first "business" on Days of Heaven.
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