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Rock n Road 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 506
Submitted By: George Perkins on Mar 7, 2009

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Description 

"Rock n Road" is the only climb mentioned for Diablo Canyon in Tim Toula's Rock N' Road guide (which was published before the sport climbing frenzy here). But its description of the area was pretty vague: "an excellent 5.11 corner can be found [at Diablo Canyon]". While many corners at Diablo fit this description, most people and guidebooks figure this clean and sustained line here on Early Wall is the one they're talking about.

Lieback a steep flake in a right-facing corner; mantle/stem over to the right at the top of it. This is the crux, it's pretty physical but well-protected. After a good rest stance here, you enter a short section of tricky finger crack. Continue with excellent stemming as you climb a nice finger crack up to the blocky roof. Turn this on on the left and finish up with more finger crack. 2-bolt anchor.

  • Protection is great the whole way.

  • 'Jemez Rock' and Rick B.'s guide call this route 5.11. We felt it was more like 5.10+? Your experience may vary.

  • FA: Unknown. Both the ABQ group (Tom Wezwick, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Alex Sfakianos and Karl Kiser) and the Los Alamos group (Beguin, Kisiel, and Newell) climbed in this area of Diablo in the early/mid 90s. This climb would've been within the ability of all these folks, but if it is truly the crack referred to in Rock-n-Road, it was climbed earlier than that.

Location 

"Rock n Road" is the obvious finger crack left of Early Arete and Up to Bat.
Climb #5 in Rick's beta photo.

Protection 

Nuts and cams up to 3", with 2 ea. cams in the finger sizes useful. 2-bolt anchor.


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By Rick Bradshaw
From: Los Alamos, NM
Apr 25, 2009
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Hey George, thanks for adding this one to Mountain Project. I put it in the on-line guide before I climbed it listing only the folklore that I had heard as beta. However, Josh Smith and I climbed it a few years later and decided (mostly because it wasn't 5.11) that it was probably incorrectly identified. In any case, it's a great climb. I think both Josh and I agreed that it was about mid-ten.
By Aaron Miller
Sep 26, 2011
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

This climb now has permanent anchor bolts at the top.

Enjoy