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Routes in Left End
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Aileron Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Airway Arete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Diablo Cruiser, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Early Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Humbolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Rock n Road T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rope Burn in Hell S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Schmeming S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Two Wheel Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Up To Bat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 850 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Mar 7, 2009 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
"Rock n Road" is the only climb mentioned for Diablo Canyon in Tim Toula's Rock N' Road guide (which was published before the sport climbing frenzy here). But its description of the area was pretty vague: "an excellent 5.11 corner can be found [at Diablo Canyon]". While many corners at Diablo fit this description, most people and guidebooks figure this clean and sustained line here on Early Wall is the one they're talking about.
Lieback a steep flake in a right-facing corner; mantle/stem over to the right at the top of it. This is the crux, it's pretty physical but well-protected. After a good rest stance here, you enter a short section of tricky finger crack. Continue with excellent stemming as you climb a nice finger crack up to the blocky roof. Turn this on on the left and finish up with more finger crack. 2-bolt anchor.
Lieback a steep flake in a right-facing corner; mantle/stem over to the right at the top of it. This is the crux, it's pretty physical but well-protected. After a good rest stance here, you enter a short section of tricky finger crack. Continue with excellent stemming as you climb a nice finger crack up to the blocky roof. Turn this on on the left and finish up with more finger crack. 2-bolt anchor.
- Protection is great the whole way.
- 'Jemez Rock' and Rick B.'s guide call this route 5.11. We felt it was more like 5.10+? Your experience may vary.
- FA: Unknown. Both the ABQ group (Tom Wezwick, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Alex Sfakianos and Karl Kiser) and the Los Alamos group (Beguin, Kisiel, and Newell) climbed in this area of Diablo in the early/mid 90s. This climb would've been within the ability of all these folks, but if it is truly the crack referred to in Rock-n-Road, it was climbed earlier than that.
Location
"Rock n Road" is the obvious finger crack left of Early Arete and Up to Bat.
Climb #5 in![]()
Early Arete is #6. .
Climb #5 in
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