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Snake Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Bullet the New Sky S 
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Discombobulated S 
Dissonance S 
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Mississippi Burning S 
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Racist, The S 
Rock Lobster T 
S.T.A.N.C. T 
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Rock Lobster 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Ed Begoon
Page Views: 349
Submitted By: Scott Gilliam on Jun 16, 2011

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Description 

Another classic Begoon face route, Rock Lobster snakes up the face left of Bullet. Starting in the same right-facing corner as Bullet, head left and up via seams and flakes, placing any gear you can find. At a horizontal seam, tiptoe right to a bolt. From the bolt follow edges, flakes and slots up and then back left to a good stance beneath a hand-size mail slot. Stuff a good cam in this slot, leaving room for your fingers and then puzzle out the powerful sequence and run to the anchors

Protection 

Nuts, 000 C3 to 3 Friend/2 Camalot including a variety of microcams, 1 bolt, bolted anchor with rings.


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By Scott Gilliam
From: Raleigh, NC
Jun 16, 2011

IMHO this route is every bit as classic as Party Til Yer Blind. The climbing is continuously engaging, but not continuously protectable. Bring your balance and a cool head, and prepare to make committing moves well above your gear. The 000 C3 is not mandatory as the bolt is close, but the traverse to the bolt would be a grim prospect w/o a carefully placed purple TCU.
By BrianWS
Sep 8, 2014
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R

Unless I accidentally did a linkup with the 10D R route to the left, the runouts are substantial on this one. The first crux is a 15 foot sequence well above small gear, and has good groundfall potential if you were to blow it.
I didn't find any gear for the 15+ foot traverse back to the lone bolt, resulting in another scary sequence.

I'm surprised that the guidebook doesn't comment on the spiciness of the climb. In addition, some of the stone is still delicate in spots around and past the lone bolt.

Double up on small c3s or TCUs and bring singles in hand-sized gear.