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 ADVANCED
Otter Cliffs
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Sand Beach cliffs 
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Rock Lobster 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 4,548
Submitted By: nickv on Feb 26, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
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Rock Lobster

Description 

Climb up good edges and horizontals up the face right of a chimney to a small roof. Pull the roof and lie-back up a thin left leaning corner.

Location 

The South face of The Sea Stack.

Protection 

Gear anchor. Maybe some webbing or some static line.


Comments on Rock Lobster Add Comment
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By Chris Norfolk
From: Fredericton, New Brunswick
Feb 11, 2010

Really fun line. Would make a great little sport climb were bolting accepted. As is, It's still worth a top rope.

Unaware of any anchor potential at the cliff's edge, we constructed a bomb-proof anchor using an entire 60m line as a rope-o-lette!
Bomber!
Bomber!
By Landonf
May 23, 2011

Leave your drill at home and man up. I led it 30 years ago.
By USBRIT
From: Cumbria.UK
Jun 6, 2011

FA Paul Ross ,also free soloed about 1970
By Brendan Blanchard
From: Strafford, NH
May 8, 2013

Landonf, any word on what the lead is like? What kind of gear, and falls?
By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Oct 2, 2013

There are plenty of places to place gear, but be prepared to extend a bit. Webbing or static line will be very helpful. If you walk to the climber's left past the seastack you can get a good view of the route. The prime anchor spot ends up making your lead line go over a ledge that you would not see from above. Make sure you plan accordingly and protect your rope! We found it best to hang the anchor over the top of the seastack lip, and have the belayer stand on the ledge, with a rope bag protecting the rope rubbing against the lip of the ledge.

Very fun climbing!