Rock Lobster 5.11b
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Dr. Mike starting the crux finger-stacking. I didn...
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Description This route lies approximately 50' to the right of the leaning pillar that defines Brokentooth Wall at the top of the approach trail. Cupping hands for the first 80', with rests in four or five flares fairly evenly spaced after 50'. Narrows to fingers near the top for the crux. Traverse right, go up, then back left to avoid the .11b if necessary. Can be TR'd with two 60's but you have to get around the knot. Great route!
Protection Six or seven 3's for the first 80' or so, one number 2, two 1.5's, and two 1's for the crux (finget stacking crack) to the chains.
Carol approximately 15' up Rock Lobster. Note the ...
| great climb
| Into the crux on Rock Lobster. To the right are I...
| Love those slammer hands!
| Doug climbs.
| Cruisin the splitter perfect hands
| I played photographer on this climb. Friend of mi...
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By Joe Collins Oct 21, 2003 rating: 5.11a
| This is an all-time Indian Creek classic and probably one of the softer 11s you'll ever do. Its a great intro to finger stacks, since the crux section is less than vertical and there are slightly wider parts for the feet. If there are cars already parked at Broken Tooth when you arrive, then you best go elsewhere since there isn't a huge selection of climbs and everyone wants to do Rock Lobster. |
By Jay Brown May 22, 2005
| now there is a few short warm-ups to the left. |
By Jeff G. From: Fort Collins Nov 13, 2006 rating: 5.11b/c
| This route is about 35 meters long and can just barely be toproped with a single 70m. Great pitch, pretty hard at the end, I would say it is solid 5.11. |
By m-earle From: Concord, MA Nov 13, 2006
| I dissagree with the first comment. rock lobster is probably the easyest/best climb at broken tooth, but the relativly small buttress has many other stellar climbs. |
By Rob Kepley From: Westminster,CO Feb 3, 2007 rating: 5.11b
| Fantastic climb! I would highly recommend this one to everybody. Great finish. |
By Brian Scoggins From: Eugene, OR Mar 23, 2008
| This is the best route I've done in the Creek so far. There's an ever so slight offset during the hands section, so figure out how to deal with it quickly or it'll upset your rhythm constantly. |
By claramie From: Boulder, CO Nov 13, 2008
| I only took 2 #3s. Plenty of #2s though. Excellent cruiser hands up to that last pod. Great, tough finish. I learned how to ring lock on this one. My only question is who didn't give this thing 4 stars? Amazing!! |
By Brian Scoggins From: Eugene, OR Nov 23, 2008
| I think the gear list means #3 friends, which are about equivalent to #2 camalots. |
By snowhazed From: Oakland, Ca Apr 7, 2010
| Three #3 camalots- unless you like climbing above tipped out #2s |
By Phill T Apr 1, 2012 rating: 5.11-
| the whole thing is less than vertical so you can stay on your feet really well. first 70% is nice hands (mostly blue c4s) to a no hands rest pod. gradually tightens down to purple c4s with the occasional small pod to help slot feet and hands. Get on it! |
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