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Rock Land

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Chimney Crack 
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Fly, The 
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Potato Head 
Secret of Foo 
Step Aside 
Step Up 
Tan Streak 
West Corner 
Unsorted Routes:

Rock Land 


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Administrators: andy patterson, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Kristin McNamara on Jan 12, 2004
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ętaylerenerle.com Emily Jio climbing the Fly (5.8)...

Description 

It's Saturday and there's a ton of people with you looking to climb for the first time! What to do, what to do? Are you a fan of top roping? Looking to rope solo? Looking for a first lead? Want to practice chimneys? Don't mind the wait? Rock Land is the spot. An outcropping of volcanic rock that is slippery as heck is awaiting you.


Getting There 

Park at main area and head up the hill. This is the first formation you see on the hill to the North. Follow trails leading up to it.


12 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',0],['5.8',4],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Rock Land
Dylan Geyer onsighting 5.4 at age four.

West Corner 5.4 4a 12 IV VD 3c CA : Central Coast : ... : Rock Land
This route follows the steeper rock just right of the obvious, fourth class ledges. It is right on the corner. It is usually done as a solo and it scared me because of the jagged landing should you peel off. But, I am kind of a wuss....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

News and Events For Rock Land
Photos of Rock Land Slideshow Add Photo
Jody Langford took this photo of me on the corner route back in the day.
BETA PHOTO: Jody Langford took this photo of me on the corner ...
A busy day at Rock Land.
A busy day at Rock Land.
This
BETA PHOTO: This
The Rockland area features a variety of climbs ranging from 5.4 to 5.11.  All climbs have solid bolts and can be easily top roped.  Chimney Crack (5.8) can be led with gear.  Corner Route (5.7) is a great beginner sport route.  Bring long slings or a cordelette to set up One Bolt (5.6), Potato Head (5.10a), and The Fly (5.8).
BETA PHOTO: The Rockland area features a variety of climbs ran...
Rock Land - Updated Topo. Go to <a href='http://centralcoastclimbing.com/toposeguides.html' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >centralcoastclimbing.com/toposeguides.html</a> for more info. & copy of the draft e-Guide.
BETA PHOTO: Rock Land - Updated Topo. Go to centralcoas...
ęTaylerenerle.com London Gailey climbing at age 3.
ęTaylerenerle.com London Gailey climbing at age 3.
Dave Sweetland on Corner Route(5.4) at Rockland on Cabrillo Peak.
BETA PHOTO: Dave Sweetland on Corner Route(5.4) at Rockland on...
Comments on Rock Land Add Comment
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By Jody Langford
Jun 30, 2004

My only comment is that I personally like TR anchors back from the edge for safety reasons. Long runners don't bother me too much. I actually like not being right on the edge while setting up the anchor. You are right about one thing, those TR anchors were one big CF smorgasbord.

BTW, take a look at the new TR on The Beach at Wagon Caves, they are well back from the edge for a good reason...that rock with all the sand, etc., is slippery.

By Dave Bevan
Jul 1, 2004

If I remember correctly there is a really fun 5.11ish TR just to the right of chimney crack. I don't know if it ever had a name.

By Jody Langford
Jul 1, 2004

Dave...that route would be "Step Aside Direct". The beginning is so smooth I never could figure it out. I watched a 5.13 climber struggle on it and he never could figure out the lower half.

John...I have a Bosch Annihilator if you want to use it. Only have 3/8 bits though in case you were planning on 1/2 inchers.

By Dave Bevan
Jul 2, 2004

Thanks Jody.Yeah, I remember there were some pretty hard moves at the bottom. I guess it could be harder than .11, I just remember I really liked it.

I'm glad to see that climbers in the community are using a board like this to try and come to consensus on issues such as anchor placement in this area. It obviously doesn't reach everyone, but it's a good start and the more it gets used, the more people will find there way here.

By Kristin McNamara
From: SLO, CA
Jul 18, 2004

Vickie Garagliano sent me this email:

_ I have heard the name "Thin Ice" used for the_ 5.11a/b climb between_ Chimney Crack and Step Aside at Cabrillo's_ Rockland area. The big hole_ on the right is off line and has been referred_ to as a sucker hold._ This information is handed-down and has not_ been confirmed.

By Kristin McNamara
From: SLO, CA
Jul 18, 2004

Regarding the anchor reorganization:

I personally think John did a decent job with reorganizing the anchors. Since this area is a popular TR area, esp. for beginners, I can see the argument about the bolts being away from the edge - BUT, the anchors where they are now are closer to what I consider accepted practice for anchors - no runners required, just safety consciousness. An extra set of anchors would help the clusterfuck that occurs there, especially when groups like Poly Escapes bring people out there, but is it ethical to do that? I guess that's what this forum continually asks, though, eh?

By Theron Moses
Jul 18, 2004

Why would it be "unethical" to put in an extra set of anchors. It would alleviate crowding, make the climbing safer, and considerably reduce the suck factor of setting up the anchors on top. Rockland has a history of being a "begginers" area. So why not continue to keep it safe and easy?

I personally like the new anchors for Step Aside. The problem is now I need something for the top of Kermit Crack. What to do?

The anchors for Chimney Crack are awesome once they are set but it is a total pain getting them to that point. A little farther back and use extension slings might be a better idea.

The West Corner, Potato Head, & The Fly desperately need their anchors reorganized. The two bolts that are there are set up all wrong.

I have used Rockland for large groups in the past. One more set of anchors would be welcome in my opinion.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jul 14, 2009

Wolfgang Leeb and I climbed that "Step Aside" thing sometime in the early 90s. We did the hardest line we could sort out. Since it wasn't in the book Wolfie thought it hadn't been climbed. I figured it had. I don't remember much about it except that he wanted to call it Punks in the Gym because the rock was like Gullich's route at Arapiles. Of course, it was 11-something instead of 5.14 and about 25' tall. Funny to think of this place as popular because it certainly wasn't at the time. Cool rock and setting though, so it makes sense.