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Rock Jungle 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 450'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Kevin Worrall, et all
Page Views: 1,431
Submitted By: SCherry on Feb 23, 2011

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Description 

Rock Jungle is a long, mostly clean, 5.10 tour of the left side of the Main Wall at Eagle Peak. While it has some "jungle pitches" down low, up higher the rock gets cleaner and offers some really great, exposed, and well protected 5.10 pitches that are quite memorable.

Pitch 1: 5.9. Clip bolts up the finger of rock that rises from the cactus covered terrace, aiming for a large corner on the left. At the top of the finger feature move left through some vegetation to a bolted belay on the left wall of the corner. Look carefully, because the bolted anchors are hard to see. 100 feet.

Pitch 2: 10a. Climb up the corner and right out when the wall steepens off the belay (crux). Establish here and negotiate another crux getting established back into the corner again. Follow this corner all the way up, past some bushes again, and out to a large ledge system. Traverse right on the ledge for about 25 feet to the second of 2 bolted anchor stations. 100 feet.

Pitch 3: 10b, "The Crack Pitch". From the belay climb up, and clip one bolt before moving right into the grassy corner (weird 10a crux). Climb up the grassy corner (remember its a jungle) to the base of an obvious crack splitting a bulge. Jam the crack (10b crux) and at its end traverse right to good holds. Clip a high last bolt and keep moving right on jugs to an exposed belay ledge on a point of rock. 75 feet.

Pitch 4; 10a, "The Hollow Flakes". Step across from the exposed belay, clip a bolt, and move around the arete into the base of a corner below a large roof (straight up from the belay is the 10c/d 4th pitch of "Southwest Face"). From here climb up the right side of the corner on amazing hollow flakes until you can escape out the right side of the roof to a stance. From this stance the route finding is a bit tricky. You will be looking at 2 obvious, short aretes of rock. The next bolt is at the top of the left arete, but you want to layback up the right arete, clip the bolt, and traverse left out on a slab above the roof. One final 5.8 move guards the anchors just up over a small bulge with good holds. 60 feet.

Pitch 5: 5.8. From the belay move up and left and follow low 5th class moves for about 40 feet. The final 30-40 feet steepens to nice 5.8 slab climbing to the top of the wall and a large ledge of rock below the terra firma. The anchors are located on a right facing block and have quick links for rappeling. 80 feet.


Location 

From Lunch Rock descend to the low point of the Main Wall. From here continue up and left on a terrace covered in cactus that rises from the base. Follow this terrace up about 200 feet passing the obvious clean finger cracks of Scylla and Charybdis high on the main face. After this clean section of rock there is a large gully that touches down on the terrace. Rock Jungle begins on an obvious finger of rock on the left side of the gully, just right of a cleaner low wall that contains a couple of bolted lines. Rock Jungle shares its start with the route "Ivory Tower".


Protection 

15 quick draws



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By SCherry
From: San Diego, CA
Feb 20, 2012

Been climbing out in this area the last few weekends. Rock Jungle is pretty overgrown this season. Its hard to even see where the second pitch goes from the ground.

Also someone left a rope fixed to the first pitch anchor that had obviously been cut. If you want your rope back, let me know. We rescued it and hiked it out.