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West Ridge - part B - Long John to Verschneidung
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aftershock TR 
Atom Smasher S 
Baby Sitter T 
Break on Through T 
Break On Through to Chianti T 
Chianti T 
Clear-a-Sill T 
Cruisin' for Burgers T 
Ein Kluck T,TR 
Ghetto Blaster T,TR 
Gibbet, The T 
Incarnation S 
Long John Wall T 
Next to Nearly T 
Rictus T 
Rock For Climbing Routes To T 
Shock Of the New T,TR 
Strawberry Shortcut T 
Sunshine Wall T,TR 
Toothsheaf Transfusion T,TR 
Unlead, The T,TR 
Unsaid, The T 
Uranus T 
Varieties Of Religious Experience T,TR 
Washington Irving T 
White Rabbit T 

Rock For Climbing Routes To 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Alec Sharp
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 708
Submitted By: Chris Weidner on Mar 17, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Bastille - M-F closures. Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>


"Fava Beans" ascends a thin, steep crack and right-facing corner about 5 feet to the right of Chianti's second pitch. Approach via the first pitch of either Break on Through or Chianti to a belay at a small tree about 100 feet above the ground. Medium nuts and a small TCU make a slightly higher and more comfortable belay than just the tree.

From the belay, tiptoe up the easy slab veering right, finesse your way through the rotten band, and place a good piece or two at the base of the thin crack immediately right of Chianti. From here, about 30 feet of steep and well-protected climbing brings you to the large ledge at the top of Chianti and Atom Smasher where several anchor possibilities exist.

To descend, either downclimb east, south, then west to the bolted anchor above Washington Irving (as described on p. 224 of Rossiter's book), or rappel from the bolts above Atom Smasher directly to Washington Irving's anchor (60 ft.). Be very careful getting to the bolts atop Atom Smasher! A 70m rope barely reaches the ground from Washington Irving, but if using a 60m rope it is easy to scramble down climber's left to the ground.


One set of cams from #0 TCU through #2 Camalot plus small to medium nuts will sew this pitch up nicely. For the anchor on top it may be helpful to have an extra #2 Camalot as well as a couple of medium nuts or small cams. The belay above pitch one at the tree can also use medium nuts and a small cam for added safety and comfort.

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By Andy Donson
Mar 18, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Sorry about this, but I also did the FA of this back in '98, only to discover some time later that it was the top pitch of "Rock For Climbing Routes To" an Alec Sharp route from ages ago.It felt harder than 10b to me.
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 19, 2004

My apologies, ac.

We did our homework (including pouring over the database to see if an FA had already been claimed), but unfortunately we didn't get an "A". Somehow we had a collective team brain fart and completely missed the last part of Rossiter's description of "Rock for Climbing Routes", even though that's exactly what we were looking for.

Lesson learned, although it's a damn shame there can't be a route around here named "Fava Beans", especially since this Chianti really is quite nice.
By Chris Archer
Oct 25, 2004

Rock for Climbing Routes To is an independent 3 pitch (as originally done) line that begins on the arete left of the first pitch of Break on Through and ends as described here. Perhaps Andy could provide additional FA details.

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