Rock Du Jours Direct 

there are far better 5.9s at rumney in my mind but yes this is a fun adventure indeed...

How far left of the anchors does this start going up?

Im guessing 15 ft. Its all glue-ins. Don't go all the way to the Rawl bolt. That is for an unfinished project that comes close to RDJD at that point and could cause confusion

I noticed that two of the one-star votes were from people who only did the first pitch, according to their notes. I don't think it's fair to rate a climb based on only doing one half. You wouldn't climb flyin hawaiin up to the dihedral, then come down and say, "eh, it's just alright."

The second pitch is quite awesome, and I would agree with Mark that it vies for best 9 at Rumney. Super exposure, amazing views, awesome holds and a nice feeling of adventure, not to mention you get to top out main cliff at the end.

Also, when starting the 5.9 pitch (2), after you traverse left and clip two eyebolts, don't cut back right too early, or you'll be on another climb (the thang?), that is harder.

That would be the variation Soup to Nuts, a 12 with a big dyno. Be aware with Rock du Jours that there is a bathtub sized rock that is not held on by much, to the left when you go up through the notch of the second pitch. You can't see how loose and scary it is from the route, but if it cuts loose it will likely crash down where everybody hangs out. If you climb this before it gets trundled, be VERY careful.

P2 is really good. It gets 3-stars from me. Got to do Dolt first before deciding which is better. BUT, was P2 of RJD wiped out by the rockfall of Mar 2010? I have been too scared to go over there to climb and find out!

Did this today for the first time and loved it. The second pitch is REALLY fun!

Jeffrey, glad you agree P2 is great. I had a lot of fun on it. From what you wrote, my guess is it was not significantly impacted by the rockfall back in March?

Soon, As far as I could tell it was fine. I didn't see any loose bathtub size rocks in my way (but then again I wasn't really looking hard to find one). After the short slab, the right angle ramp had some loose / chossy stuff... but the climb doesn't go towards it really.

I agree with Ty. You HAVE to do the second pitch to really talk about this route. I really enjoyed it.

P2 is still great in 2011.

B-B-Butress is the best 5.9 @ Rumney, without a doubt.

Hey now, I climbed only the first pitch, and I still found this to be a nice fun route, with a really fun crux move (although I won't mark an ascent or rate the climb until I have done both pitches clean).

The bathtub sized rock is now gone from the second pitch.

Mark, just to confirm, this rock wasn't anything essential to the route, correct? Jours is on my short term to do list. If it was just a scary loose block it's a good thing its gone given its position.

Nope, just a scary loose block gone. I haven't been on the route for quite a while until yesterday, but the reach move from the big undercling seemed a little harder than I remember it. Maybe I used to push one of my feet off the block. More likely I am just weaker, lol. Getting back on it did confirm my impression that it is one of if not the best 5.9s at Rumney though. Get on it! It will blow the cobwebs out of you head the first time you do it.

Looking forward to it. Thanks!

Spot on, Mark, about this being a really good and fun 5.9 at Rumney.
Sorry I did not know you were at A&D and Main Cliff yesterday. I would have headed over to say "hi" and climb with you.

Just got on this for the first time a couple of weeks ago. Thought (incorrectly) that I had done it before so I didn't take a look at the guide book. A bit surprised when I got to the top of the first pitch and looked straight up to what seemed like harder than 5.9+, so I started to traverse out left on the big flake until finding the good holds to move upwards and onto the large low angle slab. I explored out left as I couldn't see any bolts after the one with a chain link on it. Seemed like it was going to be tough so I ended up going right and making it up to the top for the onsight, but it was definitely more of an adventure than I was expecting! Really fun route!