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Rock Du Jours Direct 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: cleaned and bolted by Mark Sprague, but much of the terrain previously climbed by others
Page Views: 3,164
Submitted By: M Sprague on Sep 18, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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pitch 2, jeff and jared... wow, what a spot!

Description 

This is perhaps one of the best 5.9s at Rumney (at least for it's airy positioning), offering two pitches of climbing on the far right side of the Iron Man Wall. The first pitch warms you up with 100 ft of scrambly to quality moderate (5.7) climbing following corner systems. The second starts out with a bang, with an exposed, pumpy traverse out flakes. Stay low on the flakes and keep traversing until you are about 8 feet past the last bolt in the overhang and it starts to feel scary befor pulling over if you want to keep the climbing easier. Then a short slab gets you to an undercling and a big reach up to another overhanging hand traverse going right and mantel to a rest. Move out right on to the exposed face, then up to the final airy finish. This route is a great outing with excellent positioning and views of the Main Cliff and the Baker River valley below.

The 2nd pitch leader should be comfortable with 5.9 as the traverse moves off the first anchor are relatively stiff and intimidating (good positive holds though ;-)


Location 

Starts on the right hand side of the Iron Man Wall section. Just right of Gold Digger, climb up to an easy right leaning scrambly ramp, then up into a nice corner, following eyebolts to an excellent belay ledge. 5.7 (Breaking off left and following another corner with regular hangered bolts leads you to the second pitch anchor of Goldbug, and The Thang above)

Pitch 2: Head out left on the big flake system past a few bolts, then mantel and head up to a notch with an overhang above. Undercling and reach the top of the overhang and hand traverse right until you can mantel over. Get a shake, then head right around the arete into the exposure and up. Finishes straight up on flakes to a bolted anchor. From here, lower back to the belay and belay your second. From the belay you can just get down to the base the way you came with a 60m rope. Be especially careful of loose stones on your descent and while pulling the rope as there are usually people below.


Protection 

All bolted with bolted anchors. Take some slings and longer draws.



Photos of Rock Du Jours Direct Slideshow Add Photo
Allie having fun.
Allie having fun.
jeff and jared, pitch 1
jeff and jared, pitch 1
Allie un-clipping.
Allie un-clipping.
fun to the very top!
fun to the very top!
jeff and jared pitch one... beautiful morning
jeff and jared pitch one... beautiful morning
Allie approaching the end of the first pitch.
Allie approaching the end of the first pitch.
jared on the crux 2nd pitch of Rock du jours
jared on the crux 2nd pitch of Rock du jours
Awesome start of pitch 2
Awesome start of pitch 2
Comments on Rock Du Jours Direct Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 14, 2013
By Ira O'Meara
From: Hardwick, VT
1 hour ago

CONDITION REPORT 

A really Fun route, especially the second pitch! The beginning is not so exciting but the second half of the first pitch and onwards is really exposed and beautiful. There is a Peregrine nest on the next ledge above the belay ledge for p2. It skwauked at me (not sure how to spell that) then flew around my head for a while. Unfortunately maybe that area should be avoided? I hadn't heard anything about falcon closures but...

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Oct 28, 2008

there are far better 5.9s at rumney in my mind but yes this is a fun adventure indeed...

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Sep 24, 2009

How far left of the anchors does this start going up?

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Sep 28, 2009

Im guessing 15 ft. Its all glue-ins. Don't go all the way to the Rawl bolt. That is for an unfinished project that comes close to RDJD at that point and could cause confusion

By twellman
Apr 11, 2010

I noticed that two of the one-star votes were from people who only did the first pitch, according to their notes. I don't think it's fair to rate a climb based on only doing one half. You wouldn't climb flyin hawaiin up to the dihedral, then come down and say, "eh, it's just alright."

The second pitch is quite awesome, and I would agree with Mark that it vies for best 9 at Rumney. Super exposure, amazing views, awesome holds and a nice feeling of adventure, not to mention you get to top out main cliff at the end.

Also, when starting the 5.9 pitch (2), after you traverse left and clip two eyebolts, don't cut back right too early, or you'll be on another climb (the thang?), that is harder.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 13, 2010

That would be the variation Soup to Nuts, a 12 with a big dyno. Be aware with Rock du Jours that there is a bathtub sized rock that is not held on by much, to the left when you go up through the notch of the second pitch. You can't see how loose and scary it is from the route, but if it cuts loose it will likely crash down where everybody hangs out. If you climb this before it gets trundled, be VERY careful.

By S. Neoh
Aug 11, 2010

P2 is really good. It gets 3-stars from me. Got to do Dolt first before deciding which is better. BUT, was P2 of RJD wiped out by the rockfall of Mar 2010? I have been too scared to go over there to climb and find out!

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 25, 2010

Did this today for the first time and loved it. The second pitch is REALLY fun!

By S. Neoh
Sep 25, 2010

Jeffrey, glad you agree P2 is great. I had a lot of fun on it. From what you wrote, my guess is it was not significantly impacted by the rockfall back in March?

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Sep 26, 2010

Soon, As far as I could tell it was fine. I didn't see any loose bathtub size rocks in my way (but then again I wasn't really looking hard to find one). After the short slab, the right angle ramp had some loose / chossy stuff... but the climb doesn't go towards it really.

I agree with Ty. You HAVE to do the second pitch to really talk about this route. I really enjoyed it.

By kenr
Aug 5, 2011

P2 is still great in 2011.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Nov 4, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

B-B-Butress is the best 5.9 @ Rumney, without a doubt.

By Matt Wilson
From: Bethel, Vermont, USA
Sep 23, 2012

Hey now, I climbed only the first pitch, and I still found this to be a nice fun route, with a really fun crux move (although I won't mark an ascent or rate the climb until I have done both pitches clean).

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 22, 2013

The bathtub sized rock is now gone from the second pitch.

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 22, 2013

Mark, just to confirm, this rock wasn't anything essential to the route, correct? Jours is on my short term to do list. If it was just a scary loose block it's a good thing its gone given its position.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Apr 22, 2013

Nope, just a scary loose block gone. I haven't been on the route for quite a while until yesterday, but the reach move from the big undercling seemed a little harder than I remember it. Maybe I used to push one of my feet off the block. More likely I am just weaker, lol. Getting back on it did confirm my impression that it is one of if not the best 5.9s at Rumney though. Get on it! It will blow the cobwebs out of you head the first time you do it.

By MLevine
From: Nashua, NH
Apr 22, 2013

Looking forward to it. Thanks!

By S. Neoh
Apr 22, 2013

Spot on, Mark, about this being a really good and fun 5.9 at Rumney.
Sorry I did not know you were at A&D and Main Cliff yesterday. I would have headed over to say "hi" and climb with you.

By Jon Hollander
May 7, 2013

Just got on this for the first time a couple of weeks ago. Thought (incorrectly) that I had done it before so I didn't take a look at the guide book. A bit surprised when I got to the top of the first pitch and looked straight up to what seemed like harder than 5.9+, so I started to traverse out left on the big flake until finding the good holds to move upwards and onto the large low angle slab. I explored out left as I couldn't see any bolts after the one with a chain link on it. Seemed like it was going to be tough so I ended up going right and making it up to the top for the onsight, but it was definitely more of an adventure than I was expecting! Really fun route!

By JayMorse
From: Hooksett, New Hampshire
Jul 1, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

For some reason Ward Smith's guidebook says "break up and left" as part of the description for pitch1. The first pitch never trends left at all. You trend right until climbing straight up to the anchor. There are some bolts that trend left which will lead you to the goldbug anchor, staring up at 5.12c! Don't get fooled like me! We were able to traverse over to the true anchor just fine (5.6 climbing id say) but it wasn't ideal.

We did this on a rainy day. Parts of pitch 1 were wet, but it's no big deal if you're comfortable with 5.7. Pitch2 was perfectly dry less than an hour after some rain, though there were some drops coming off the overhang at the top hitting me every once in a while. It seems to be totally protected.

This is one of the best climbs I've done at rumney! The 2nd pitch has gorgeous views and positioning, a great variety of interesting moves, and a definite feeling of adventure.

By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Jul 1, 2013

I kind of make a few moves angling left from just as you start heading up the wall from the initial scrambly section. That must be what he was referring to. I could see how that could be confusing though. The guidebook drawing is a little messed up there. The key is to stick with the glue-in bolts. The regularly hangered Rawl bolts that follow the corner out left to the Goldbug second pitch anchors are what Jay described. The steeply overhanging flake above is actually a 10c the Thang, though it may not look like it. The Thang anchors fell off in the great rockfall, so you currently have to lower off the last two bolts of the route.

By Ming
Oct 14, 2013

I can't imagine a more exposed climb at Rumney at the grade. Definitely amazing and one of the best 5.9's at Rumney! Sooo airy. The uncling block move is not to be under estimated and I think is now the crux of the rout (not the overhand jug haul of a start). Must do in the fall!