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Rock Climbing Indoors With Mountaineering Boots?
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By Joseph D'Agostino
Nov 13, 2012
Climbing

When I was younger, I remember seeing a climber leading 5.10 routes at the indoor gym near me wearing plastic Mountaineering boots. I think that he was an avid ice climber.

But my question is, how would this help climbers?

Is it more of a weighted feet kind of thing to increase core and leg strength and control?

Is it good training for mixed climbing?
These boots were in the place of climbing shoes; he wasn't dry tooling. Basically, why would someone wear ice climbing boots(Without Crampons)to lead 5.10s in a gym?


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Nov 13, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

Joseph D'Agostino wrote:
When I was younger, I remember seeing a climber leading 5.10 routes at the indoor gym near me wearing plastic Mountaineering boots. I think that he was an avid ice climber. But my question is, how would this help climbers? Is it more of a weighted feet kind of thing to increase core and leg strength and control? Is it good training for mixed climbing? These boots were in the place of climbing shoes; he wasn't dry tooling. Basically, why would someone wear ice climbing boots(Without Crampons)to lead 5.10s in a gym?

You do climb rock in boots (without crampons) on occasion while alpine climbing. Seems like it could be a good skill to practice. Besides, wearing crampons in the gym would just suck!


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By Jason Holliday
From Blacksburg, VA
Nov 15, 2012
Me

It's probably rare that someone would lead 5.10 in boots, but not rare at all to lead 5.8 or so in boots. This would largely occur on alpine rock routes, particularly where the route is otherwise easy and there is just a short crux or two for which it would be a hassle to switch over to rock shoes (and to have to carry them).

He was probably just seeing how far he could push it in the boots.


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By Eric Engberg
Nov 15, 2012

Likely training for an upcoming alpine trip. Prettyy common. You do realize that people sometimes climb rock in the mountains? Hard rock. Like actual 5.10, not gym "5.10". For some things a stiff boot is not much of a handicap. Look what was being done in RR's etc. ~40 years ago. Think you could do any better in your "agressive" super sticky, down tuned, state of the art wonder shoes?


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 16, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

doing any technical rock climbing at alitutde pretty much requires climbing rcok in your mountaineering boots, unless you want frostbitten toes.


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By csproul
From Rancho Cordova, CA
Nov 16, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the background

superkick wrote:
doing any technical rock climbing at alitutde pretty much requires climbing rcok in your mountaineering boots, unless you want frostbitten toes.


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By Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Nov 16, 2012
Sure, I can belay

Eric Engberg wrote:
Likely training for an upcoming alpine trip. Prettyy common. You do realize that people sometimes climb rock in the mountains? Hard rock. Like actual 5.10, not gym "5.10". For some things a stiff boot is not much of a handicap. Look what was being done in RR's etc. ~40 years ago. Think you could do any better in your "agressive" super sticky, down tuned, state of the art wonder shoes?


I used to practice in mountain boots a fair amount, used them at the Gunks and Stover State Park in PA. They work well for edging, although the heavy weight at the end of your legs was noticeable.
I climbed indoors with them too, even did a local competition once and came in 2nd place! Although that was mostly because I paid attention to the boundary markers on the route, unlike most of the other competitors. Indoor footholds tend to be pretty positive, so mountain boots work OK, until you get to the harder routes.

And yes, I'm pretty sure I can do better in my " "agressive" super sticky, down tuned, state of the art wonder shoes".


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By superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Nov 16, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3

psh csproul i know those exist. they just arent practical / or all that warm. much easier to just keep your toasty double boots on and deal with it.


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By Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Nov 16, 2012
Stairway to Heaven

Fritz Weisser on Never Never Land (5.10a) in the Gunks. He was 73 at the time.

Source: Richard Dumais, Shawangunk Rock Climbing
Source: Richard Dumais, Shawangunk Rock Climbing


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By prod.
From Boulder, Co
Nov 16, 2012

Or he could have been an attention whore?

Prod.


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By gearwhore
From Orange, CA
Nov 16, 2012

Done it myself a few times (local crag) to practice for the real deal (outdoors). Helped me to find out where my limits were and to push them further.

Good stuff..try it if you're going for Alpine routes.


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