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Rock Climbing Indoors With Mountaineering Boots?
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Nov 13, 2012
Climbing
When I was younger, I remember seeing a climber leading 5.10 routes at the indoor gym near me wearing plastic Mountaineering boots. I think that he was an avid ice climber.

But my question is, how would this help climbers?

Is it more of a weighted feet kind of thing to increase core and leg strength and control?

Is it good training for mixed climbing?
These boots were in the place of climbing shoes; he wasn't dry tooling. Basically, why would someone wear ice climbing boots(Without Crampons)to lead 5.10s in a gym?
Joseph D'Agostino
Joined Nov 2, 2009
118 points
Nov 13, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the backgrou...
Joseph D'Agostino wrote:
When I was younger, I remember seeing a climber leading 5.10 routes at the indoor gym near me wearing plastic Mountaineering boots. I think that he was an avid ice climber. But my question is, how would this help climbers? Is it more of a weighted feet kind of thing to increase core and leg strength and control? Is it good training for mixed climbing? These boots were in the place of climbing shoes; he wasn't dry tooling. Basically, why would someone wear ice climbing boots(Without Crampons)to lead 5.10s in a gym?

You do climb rock in boots (without crampons) on occasion while alpine climbing. Seems like it could be a good skill to practice. Besides, wearing crampons in the gym would just suck!
csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
109 points
Nov 15, 2012
Me
It's probably rare that someone would lead 5.10 in boots, but not rare at all to lead 5.8 or so in boots. This would largely occur on alpine rock routes, particularly where the route is otherwise easy and there is just a short crux or two for which it would be a hassle to switch over to rock shoes (and to have to carry them).

He was probably just seeing how far he could push it in the boots.
Jason Holliday
From Blacksburg, VA
Joined May 15, 2010
37 points
Nov 15, 2012
Likely training for an upcoming alpine trip. Prettyy common. You do realize that people sometimes climb rock in the mountains? Hard rock. Like actual 5.10, not gym "5.10". For some things a stiff boot is not much of a handicap. Look what was being done in RR's etc. ~40 years ago. Think you could do any better in your "agressive" super sticky, down tuned, state of the art wonder shoes? Eric Engberg
Joined Apr 28, 2009
2 points
Nov 16, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
doing any technical rock climbing at alitutde pretty much requires climbing rcok in your mountaineering boots, unless you want frostbitten toes.

superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Nov 16, 2012
Summit of Wolf's Head with Pingora in the backgrou...
superkick wrote:
doing any technical rock climbing at alitutde pretty much requires climbing rcok in your mountaineering boots, unless you want frostbitten toes.

csproul
From Davis, CA
Joined Dec 3, 2009
109 points
Nov 16, 2012
At the BRC
Eric Engberg wrote:
Likely training for an upcoming alpine trip. Prettyy common. You do realize that people sometimes climb rock in the mountains? Hard rock. Like actual 5.10, not gym "5.10". For some things a stiff boot is not much of a handicap. Look what was being done in RR's etc. ~40 years ago. Think you could do any better in your "agressive" super sticky, down tuned, state of the art wonder shoes?


I used to practice in mountain boots a fair amount, used them at the Gunks and Stover State Park in PA. They work well for edging, although the heavy weight at the end of your legs was noticeable.
I climbed indoors with them too, even did a local competition once and came in 2nd place! Although that was mostly because I paid attention to the boundary markers on the route, unlike most of the other competitors. Indoor footholds tend to be pretty positive, so mountain boots work OK, until you get to the harder routes.

And yes, I'm pretty sure I can do better in my " "agressive" super sticky, down tuned, state of the art wonder shoes".
Mark E Dixon
From Sprezzatura, Someday
Joined Nov 29, 2007
204 points
Nov 16, 2012
Free Solo up hitchcock gully WI3
psh csproul i know those exist. they just arent practical / or all that warm. much easier to just keep your toasty double boots on and deal with it. superkick
From West Hartford, CT
Joined Aug 23, 2011
31 points
Nov 16, 2012
Stairway to Heaven
Fritz Weisser on Never Never Land (5.10a) in the Gunks. He was 73 at the time.

Source: Richard Dumais, Shawangunk Rock Climbing
Source: Richard Dumais, Shawangunk Rock Climbing
Martin le Roux
From Superior, CO
Joined Jul 16, 2003
155 points
Nov 16, 2012
Or he could have been an attention whore?

Prod.
prod.
From Boulder, Co
Joined Nov 29, 2008
52 points
Nov 16, 2012
Done it myself a few times (local crag) to practice for the real deal (outdoors). Helped me to find out where my limits were and to push them further.

Good stuff..try it if you're going for Alpine routes.
gearwhore
From Orange, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2011
6 points


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