This post violated Rule #1. It has been removed by Mountain Project.

I read the original post, no problem, because I care a lot more about climbing than critiquing someone's writing. It sounds like fair warning to me. No need for bolts when you have good gear.

by the looks of that picture there's a bolt about every 4-5 feet on a protectable crack, that does seem kinda shitty.

that photo is worth a jillion words. I agree with Dylan that the debate/discussion between two people is much better settled in person than in a forum, but the bigger issue of bolting cracks for convenience goes well beyond just the FA and retrobolter.

also, "i couldn't be bothered to read something without paragraph breaks, so it must be lame" is weak sauce.

I do not believe that you own the rock just because you've climbed it.

pm sent with TOPO upload instructions

@ LG, Well I'm old and fat, think I'll go out and chip some holds.

@ the rest of the retro bolters. If you need a bolt every four feet stay in the gym.

My Wife is doing a photoshoot with Dean tomorrow. I'm picking him up at Lynns house, I'll ask them if they know Martin Veillon and is he "an original Stone Master"... I agree with every thing Martin said as well as Crump, and I don't really care that Martin doesn't use paragraphs, it's the title of the OP that interests me most for some reason.

sad this place is just another internet cesspool now...attacking the man instead of discussing the issues.

I'm with you Martin good luck and thanks for holding the line.

knew the sport would explode in popularity but never would have expected the lazy self-centered arrogance that this new generation of climbers would bring.

bolting cracks and/or eliminating runouts on established climbs? or defending such?

cowards.

"As Free As the Wind" by Martin Veillon

Like gypsies in the night, we dance with our shadows
cast from the campfire light.
Surefoot and free, we feel the heartbeat of our Mother Earth,
and wash our feet in the mornings dew on the grass.

We are at home throughout all of the mountains and valleys we roam,
all is so peacefull at twilight and dawn
that we can hear the whisper of the wind in our hair.

A golden eagle circles closely overhead as we speak with the coyotes,
a mountain lion and her two cubs watch from nearby,
as the forest sparrows eat from our outstretched and raised hands,
their tiny feet tickeling our dried palms,
whose backsides are beginning to show the wrinkles of times gone by.

I recall, as I watch my son bounding down the trail,
that I too once had more bounce in these tired knees of mine.
I remember bounding, like the mountain goat billie I use to be,
surefooted and strong on ankles that couldn't be broken
through all of the falls.

A time just before the grey hairs and wrinkles moved in,
a time when I could do anything I wanted,
and then did!

I can hardly wait to tell my grand-children
the stories of how brave I was, and still am,
and of how the only way to stay young like me
is to never stop liveing as free as the wind
that the eagle rides.

And now for my rebuttal comments:
csproul-I know about para. but was at work blasting this out while multi-tasking as always. My upcoming books will be correct as I will also employ an editor.

jarthur-in reference to your note 2-I mentiond the 5.14 climber adding bolts not because he was pissing himself, but because the need for bolts along the crack/seam being unnecessary.

wills-I've already removed bolts added once but should not have to continue doing so as I don't do this to other people's climbs out of respect.

muttonface-you don't yet possess the intellegence to understand what I've written-perhaps you one day will when you move out of your parents house and get out on your own like a man.

jeff ludwig-until you've climbed my test pieces, then you cannot know of how they compare-but I was not comparing my climbs to the "Bachar-Yerin" but was rather noting that such works of climbing art are not to be raped by the useless, worthless people who are just taking up space.

john knight-I've done all that you've noted but I didn't have time for the PS part of your comment.
I do much better when I'm not just blasting out something out from work during my busy day, other than that-thanks for your support.

david sahalie-the only application required is climbing certain routes of note-no bolt chopping needed, but when someone does this to your 1st ascents, what will you do? - or do you have any?

dylan weldin-thanks for taking the time to modify my statement to try to appease those who can't do nothing better than complain-those who no doubt still live with their parents and know everything.

dexter rutecki-just have your 14 year old sister read it to you at your bedtime.

roc-no, I do not own the rock-it says so in my statement or did you miss that? I am rather the artist of the 1st ascent and you appear to be just a spectator rather than an artist-is this true? - otherwise you should know the Stone Master guidelines.

lg-it is a lifetime acheivement that goes on and on whether you like it or not as once you're gone, you'll soon be forgotten no doubt.

To all others, thanks and to everyone let's remember "To LOVE your neighbor as you LOVE yourself."
This will bring about world peace - the concept we must all embrace, but as you can tell from my rebuttal to the negative ones-I too can dish it out as I certainly can take it!!!

i used to love my neighbor all the time, 2-3 times a week. Now, i can't stand her.

"I agree with every thing Martin said as well as Crump, and I don't really care that Martin doesn't use paragraphs, it's the title of the OP that interests me most for some reason." Hank Caylor

To Martin Veillon:

I don't care who you are. I think you are right. You must realize that the title of your post was a bit provacative, and certain to drag out the shit munchers.

To everyone else:

Why don't you go on a fucking climb, or put up a first ascent if your so bad.

Cheers!

Many of the original Stonemasters post regularly on Supertopo. Maybe you should post there, too.