Climb up to a small ledge above the belay and slide a nut into the right-facing dihedral. Take your time figuring out the sequence, the pro is far from obvious, as are the holds. The crack is often too small for finger tips and the sections wide enough to stuff your tips in are teeming with Box Elder bugs. Less than intuitive underclings and crimps get you through the crux. Clip the lone bolt on the route and shoot up the dihedral until it peters out to the right. Climb the crack to the right of the pin on Rebel Yell. Rock Capades eventually joins Rebel Yell and the two routes share anchors. Heady lead.
Rock Capades is the route just East of Rebel Yell. Belay up and to the right of the Psychobabble belay on a grassy ledge. Climb in the right-facing dihedral.
Bring ample RPs, brass and TCUs for the thin sections at the bottom. There is a bolt protecting the runout section. Gear up to a gold camalot will sew up the rest. Shares anchors with Rebel Yell on the left. One rope rappel.
|By glen kaplan|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 6, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
I really like this one too...I found it wasn't as steep as some of the other lines on this wall and had to rely on my feet a bit more than on Babble...
I woulnae say this is unusually heady (anymore than the other lines) but it sure takes a few runs or trips to the area just to get use to the flavor here...which is generally steep, technical, and exposed...
bring on the vertigo!
|By Spencer Weiler|
From: SLC, UT
Jul 12, 2011
Get your nuts on. I only placed one cam on this route at the very top. If you suck at nut placements this is a steep learning curve to improve your skills. Place a small micro and hold your breath getting to the bolt, then a massive jug appears and its just fun from there. A must do if you are up doing the babble.