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 ADVANCED
Rock Garden Valley - Left Side
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beck's Bet 
Double Dogleg 
Euthyphro 
Fortune Cookie 
Lewd and Lascivious Conduct 
MZM (Maria Zink Memorial) 
Personal Space 
Pop Rocks 
Rock Candy 
Rock Dog Candy Leg 
Rock-a-Lot 
Silent But Deadly 
Smithereens 
Spitwad 
Split Personality 
Top of the Pops 
Yi 
Young Lust 

Rock Candy 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Ed Kaufer and Keith Cunning, 1979
Page Views: 4,102
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (78)
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Draws and aliens and wires, all you need.

Description 

The climb can be started directly under the first bolt via a large undercling flake (5.10), but the normal start is about 10' to the left, and about halfway to the start of Rock-a-Lot. Once above the flake a thin horizontal crack provides protection before the first bolt. Easy moves lead up and left to the second bolt where the angle steepens and a thin seam starts (microwires handy here). Pull some thin moves (crux) and then hit a finger crack which leans to the right higher before petering out below the top. Two more bolts protect fun, positive edges which lead right to the top. Bolted anchor on top with a rap from anchors atop Split Personality.

High quality rock, fun moves and the continuous nature of the climbing make this the standout route of the area and one easily led by climbers solid at the grade. Four stars out of five.


Location 

This route is located on the attractive face left of an obvious zig-zag crack system (Double Dogleg) on the furthest right portion of the Shorter Wall.


Protection 

4 bolts (3/8"), pro to 1.5" (microwires can be useful for the crux section), bolted anchor on top (3/8").



Photos of Rock Candy Slideshow Add Photo
rock candy.
rock candy.
rock candy
rock candy
Greg benton down low on the route. <br />submitted by 5.10b4me
Greg benton down low on the route.
submitted by 5....
Good climb!
Good climb!
Comments on Rock Candy Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 10, 2014
By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 29, 2003

another fun route in this area.

By Woody Stark
May 20, 2004

I feel 5.9 is a little light for this route. It felt more like 10a to me. It's a fine route, and I think I'll do it again, possibly on a midwinter day when it's snowing and the top-ropers are all huddled in their cribs sucking on their binkies.

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 29, 2005
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Excellent quality route, keeps you thinking the whole way. 5.10a IMHO.

By Anonymous Coward
Feb 14, 2005

Pretty stiff for a nine, but a couple of nice moves that will make you think.

By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Apr 12, 2006

very fun for a toprope. might be a bit heady for a lead. sustained, long, and continuous.

By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 25, 2006

The best route on the wall IMO.

By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 19, 2009

I agree, this was our favorite when we stopped by. Definitely deserves the 3 stars in the Vogel guide, perhaps more?

By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Bloody 'ell Chris "easily led by climbers solid at the grade"? I must be getting old coz' this one gave me heck of time yesterday (6/13/09).

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Feb 18, 2010

All of 5.9 and heady. Double C3's are useful. One of my favorites in the park.

By Stormeh
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a PG13

I would say all of 10a, and quite serious as well. When compared to Loose Lady, you have to call this thing 10a, and the pro is worse as well. Very sustained. Great route!

By Vitaliy
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

The direct start is a strenuous under-cling to a reachy tiny hold with very slippery foot holds. I tried it on TR and failed numerous times, Dave Mayville [too-strong] cruised right through the direct start and said it was just a 10d :)

By Nelson Day
From: Joshua Tree, CA
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13

Yeah - if you lead this from the left side like me, don't forget to clip the first bolt like I did. Was pretty sketched out on a #00 master cam (at the hand traverse before going up) and a sketchy nut before arriving at the second bolt and clipping it. Makes my hands sweat thinking about it... If you clip the first bolt, it probably isn't as rough of a lead mentally. This one was all mental for me, although the movement did get a little thin for a while.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 10, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

quite good climbing, but probably better as a TR for most who would visit the area. the first bolt is WAY off to the right of the natural line, so far that i probably would gun for the 2nd bolt, but be in groundfall terrain pretty quick.

i watched a dude deck (twice!) on this route trying to get to the first bolt. no thanks.