Rock Candy 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Ed Kaufer and Keith Cunning, 1979 |
| Submitted By: | C Miller on Jan 1, 2005 |
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rock candy
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Description The climb can be started directly under the first bolt via a large undercling flake (5.10), but the normal start is about 10' to the left, and about halfway to the start of Rock-a-Lot. Once above the flake a thin horizontal crack provides protection before the first bolt. Easy moves lead up and left to the second bolt where the angle steepens and a thin seam starts (microwires handy here). Pull some thin moves (crux) and then hit a finger crack which leans to the right higher before petering out below the top. Two more bolts protect fun, positive edges which lead right to the top. Bolted anchor on top with a rap from anchors atop Split Personality.
High quality rock, fun moves and the continuous nature of the climbing make this the standout route of the area and one easily led by climbers solid at the grade. Four stars out of five.
Location This route is located on the attractive face left of an obvious zig-zag crack system (Double Dogleg) on the furthest right portion of the Shorter Wall.
Protection 4 bolts (3/8"), pro to 1.5" (microwires can be useful for the crux section), bolted anchor on top (3/8").
rock candy.
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Greg benton down low on the route.
submitted by 5....
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Draws and aliens and wires, all you need.
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Good climb!
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By Steve Powell
From: Alhambra, California
Apr 29, 2003
| another fun route in this area. |
By Woody Stark
May 20, 2004
| I feel 5.9 is a little light for this route. It felt more like 10a to me. It's a fine route, and I think I'll do it again, possibly on a midwinter day when it's snowing and the top-ropers are all huddled in their cribs sucking on their binkies. |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jan 29, 2005
rating: 5.10a
| Excellent quality route, keeps you thinking the whole way. 5.10a IMHO. |
By Anonymous Coward
Feb 14, 2005
| Pretty stiff for a nine, but a couple of nice moves that will make you think. |
By Scott Edlin
From: boulder, co
Apr 12, 2006
| very fun for a toprope. might be a bit heady for a lead. sustained, long, and continuous. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Jul 25, 2006
| The best route on the wall IMO. |
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
May 19, 2009
| I agree, this was our favorite when we stopped by. Definitely deserves the 3 stars in the Vogel guide, perhaps more? |
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Jun 15, 2009
rating: 5.10a
| Bloody 'ell Chris "easily led by climbers solid at the grade"? I must be getting old coz' this one gave me heck of time yesterday (6/13/09). |
By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Feb 18, 2010
| All of 5.9 and heady. Double C3's are useful. One of my favorites in the park. |
By Stormeh
Apr 18, 2011
rating: 5.10a PG13
| I would say all of 10a, and quite serious as well. When compared to Loose Lady, you have to call this thing 10a, and the pro is worse as well. Very sustained. Great route! |
By Vitaliy
Nov 1, 2011
rating: 5.9
| The direct start is a strenuous under-cling to a reachy tiny hold with very slippery foot holds. I tried it on TR and failed numerous times, Dave Mayville [too-strong] cruised right through the direct start and said it was just a 10d :) |
By Nelson Day
From: Victorville, CA
May 1, 2012
rating: 5.9+ PG13
| Yeah - if you lead this from the left side like me, don't forget to clip the first bolt like I did. Was pretty sketched out on a #00 master cam (at the hand traverse before going up) and a sketchy nut before arriving at the second bolt and clipping it. Makes my hands sweat thinking about it... If you clip the first bolt, it probably isn't as rough of a lead mentally. This one was all mental for me, although the movement did get a little thin for a while. |
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