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Phantasia Boulders
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Falkor 
Nothing, The 
Rock Biter 

Rock Biter 

Hueco: V8- Font: 7B

   
Type:  Boulder, Alpine, 15'
Consensus:  Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+ [details]
FA: Todd Helgeson
Page Views: 159
Submitted By: Jared LaVacque on Jun 27, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Jared on Rock Biter.

Private property with public access. Be mindful to keep climbing accessible!! MORE INFO >>>

Description 


The crux is controlling the pain from the holds, aside from that, it is thin crimps with great feet on a 30 degree overhanging wall on excellent granite

Location 

Two-Three pads and a spotter. Cram one pad in the trench unfolded and place one or two on the slab/rock behind. The fall is generally straight back because of the angle. The spotter should just have to direct you to the pad

Protection 

On the back(north) side of the Phantasia/Nothing Boulder. Start on the low jug make a reach up rightwith your right and left hands to a crimp rail and then set your feet, use a small crimp intermediate up high with your right and then then grab the "lip" hold before the lip and then gun for the lip and finish straight up.


Photos of Rock Biter Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Biter. Photo courtesy of Matt Lowber
Rock Biter. Photo courtesy of Matt Lowber
Todd Helgeson right after the start of Rock Biter.
Todd Helgeson right after the start of Rock Biter.
Todd Helgeson right after the start of Rock Biter.
Todd Helgeson right after the start of Rock Biter.
Todd Helgeson on Rock Biter.
Todd Helgeson on Rock Biter.
Rock Biter Beta.
Rock Biter Beta.

Comments on Rock Biter Add Comment
Show which comments
By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jul 24, 2013
rating: V6-7 7A+

I felt this was quite soft for the grade, especially compared to things like muffin man and thunderfluff.
By Jared LaVacque
Administrator
From: Anchorage/Grand Junction
Jul 28, 2013

Its a different climbing style than Muffin Man or Thunderfluff. Neither of those problems is crimpy, that being said, it's hard to even compare these problems, plus Rock Biter is a 7+ and the other two are solid 8s.