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c. Frog's Head - the Arch
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Rock and Brew T 
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Wrist T 

Rock and Brew 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a R

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Dick Williams, Dave Loeks, 1973
Page Views: 624
Submitted By: vanishing spy on Sep 27, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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Description 

P1: Begin on the left side of the shallow roof 15 ft up, where a chest-height horizontal turns into a right-leaning seam. The first move off the ground is a bit tricky. Continue up left to a stance and gear. Aim up and left towards a left-facing flake/corner, then angle up and back right to a thin vertical black crack that is difficult to protect. At the top of the crack there is a pod for good gear, though you will be in ground-fall range by then. Head up thin holds to easier climbing to the tree with rings. One rope here will get you back to the ground.

P2: Step right and continue past an overhang to the GT ledge.

P3: From the GT ledge, start behind and right of a pine tree that is 40' left of the big rappel tree. Look for a right-facing flakes, and a pine tree to wrangle.

Described by Seth:
I sent my partner up pitch 3 of Rock & Brew by mistake yesterday. (We were trying to do pitch three of Morning After.) Dick says 5.8 R and I think he's right.

The starting moves up bulgy white rock would be nice except you have to fight with a pine tree to make progress. You don't really mind the tree, however, since it's the only source of pro. Then nice moves take you past the right-facing flakes with good pro.

Then you get to the real problem. You reach another pine tree and above you is a blank slab with with no pro leading to the top. The rap tree for Rusty Trifle is off to the right, but traversing over is also lacking in pro. My partner chose to traverse to the rap tree, risking a pendulum if he fell. His choice left me with the same pendulum risk as a second. Served me right.

If I'd been leading I probably would have put my cordalette around the top pine on Rock & Brew and bailed. The pitch was pretty decent up to that point, but i don't recommend it.




Location 

Look for a short right-facing corner just below the shallow roof, about 25 feet left of the Trusty Rifle offwidth (aka Rusty Jam). A chest-high horizontal turns into a right-leaning seam/overlap here.


Protection 

Standard gunks rack to a #2, small cams helpful.



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By JSH
Administrator
May 11, 2010

The crux is certainly getting off the ground, but the moves up the thin crack and past the (real) gear placement are a series of sustained 5.8 on somewhat crumbly rock, with groundfall potential from 40 ft. up. I found nothing worthwhile at the thin crack for gear (on second, and neither did Scott on lead). I'd really call this route more R/X than anything.

By Rui Ferreira
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 27, 2010

I placed a #1 Stopper at the start of the thin black seam and a #4 RP up higher (slightly above face height, when standing on some good horizontals). (I never found the place for a Ball Nut).

A 1.5 Friend fits the pod above and I was satisfied with this placement, even though the angle is more of a diagonal as opposed to a vertical placement. The climbing is not hard, but somewhat continuous on less than ideal holds (not the typical positive edges).

Run it out another 15 to 20 feet above the gear in the pod before placing your next piece on a horizontal.

By paulmadry
Aug 1, 2010

Getting of the ground is really fine, the pro above is the crux. I have dmm brass nuts and they were ok in the seam, the pod above takes cams from 0.5 to 1.5 but as mentioned it is hard to place. Climbing is just ok overall.