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East Wall
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Born to Rock S 
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Rock-A-Bye Baby 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
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Page Views: 408
Submitted By: Bad Sock Puppet on Jul 29, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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A nice day for climbing

Open with restrictions - Private Property MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Rock-A-Bye Baby is by far the most popular route on the crag mainly because it is easy and stands out from other climbs. Follow arete/chimney through jugs and pockets. Things get a bit slick and crimpy right before the roof. The crux is either the obvious roof two-thirds the way up or the first 15 ft of the climb. You can get over the roof by pulling into a large undercling and reaching over for hidden jugs. Be careful using the undercling as it seems a bit loose. Possibly an easier way over the roof is to use the crack 3 feet to the right. Due to the polished rock from all the traffic, this route is tricky for the first few bolts, but I still wouldn't give it a 5.10a.

Location 

Rock-A-Bye Baby goes up the obvious arete on the east wall.

Protection 

4 bolts to chains. If you don't like runouts, bring a nut to put into the crack once you're over the roof otherwise you'll have 15 ft of rope out by the time you hit the chains (although the last part is more like a scramble).


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By Jaren Watson
From: Rexburg, Idaho
Feb 23, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Slick, greasy route that's seen too much traffic. Unfortunately, because of the grade, it's the route that most visitors to Heise encounter, leaving a less than positive impression.
By S. Michael Myers
From: Rexburg, Idaho
Aug 10, 2011
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

the rout may be slick but it is still fun, But give the route a bit if rest and try some of the other impressive routs nearby.