Rock-A-Bye Baby  5.9+

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Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Consensus:  5.9 [details] FA:  Submitted By:  Bad Sock Puppet on Jul 29, 2008 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

A nice day for climbing

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Open with restrictions - Private Property MORE INFO >>> This crag is located on private property right next to the road. The owners have been kind enough to allow climbers to use their land for recreation. Please respect this so that the area may continue to be accesable. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Rock-A-Bye Baby is by far the most popular route on the crag mainly because it is easy and stands out from other climbs. Follow arete/chimney through jugs and pockets. Things get a bit slick and crimpy right before the roof. The crux is either the obvious roof two-thirds the way up or the first 15 ft of the climb. You can get over the roof by pulling into a large undercling and reaching over for hidden jugs. Be careful using the undercling as it seems a bit loose. Possibly an easier way over the roof is to use the crack 3 feet to the right. Due to the polished rock from all the traffic, this route is tricky for the first few bolts, but I still wouldn't give it a 5.10a.

Location 

Rock-A-Bye Baby goes up the obvious arete on the east wall.

Protection 

4 bolts to chains. If you don't like runouts, bring a nut to put into the crack once you're over the roof otherwise you'll have 15 ft of rope out by the time you hit the chains (although the last part is more like a scramble).