Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack)  WI5+ M6+ R

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Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice Consensus:  WI5+ M6+ [details] FA:  unknown visionary Season:  late fall, winter Submitted By:  Leo Paik on Dec 20, 2005 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Believe it or not, the crux.

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Description 

This is a fun TR line on the right side of the Loch Vale Gorge area. In some ways, it is reminiscent of Mixed Feelings.... When the choice lines are taken & you are itching for a pump, hang a TR & enjoy!

This line has probably been done before based upon the scratches & ease of access; however, no notation of it exists in the old J. Roberts' guide, C. Burns' guide, or either Gillett's guides. So, if you named or rated it previously, our apologies & we can change the info.

You can find this line just left of Rock, Wood, Ice & Icy Chim and starts below the overhang sporting a hanging icicle. Hike the trail in from Glacier Gorge & go right when you get to the cliff. Locate a thin corner with big flakes traversing right to the ice above the log start to Rock, Wood, Ice.

Get started up a thin corner off a block with a good right tool placement with a left tool stack on top. Reach up for the sloping ledge (crux), match, go for a higher edge, fire a leg up, get stable, move up to a great bucket, then find excellent holds traversing right towards the ice. Get set high & move right onto the thin ice. Try to get depumped on the now vertical ice and carefully go to the top. 2 trees with slings & biners may be rappelled or traverse left to the 2 bolt anchor.

Protection 

Not much.

Toprope Protection 

Slings off 2 trees above, directional 13cm ice screw.

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Jugs.	Getting back to vertical.	Worked this route recently, calling it M6 WI5+(AKA...