|Loch Vale Gorge
This is a fun TR line on the right side of the Loch Vale Gorge area. In some ways, it is reminiscent of Mixed Feelings.... When the choice lines are taken & you are itching for a pump, hang a TR & enjoy!
This line has probably been done before based upon the scratches & ease of access; however, no notation of it exists in the old J. Roberts' guide, C. Burns' guide, or either Gillett's guides. So, if you named or rated it previously, our apologies & we can change the info.
You can find this line just left of Rock, Wood, Ice & Icy Chim and starts below the overhang sporting a hanging icicle. Hike the trail in from Glacier Gorge & go right when you get to the cliff. Locate a thin corner with big flakes traversing right to the ice above the log start to Rock, Wood, Ice.
Get started up a thin corner off a block with a good right tool placement with a left tool stack on top. Reach up for the sloping ledge (crux), match, go for a higher edge, fire a leg up, get stable, move up to a great bucket, then find excellent holds traversing right towards the ice. Get set high & move right onto the thin ice. Try to get depumped on the now vertical ice and carefully go to the top. 2 trees with slings & biners may be rappelled or traverse left to the 2 bolt anchor.
Slings off 2 trees above, directional 13cm ice screw.
Believe it or not, the crux.
Worked this route recently, calling it M6 WI5+(AKA...