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 ADVANCED
Loch Vale Gorge
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Brown Smear? T 
Crystal Meth T 
Free Strike Zone T 
Hydrogen Bondage 
Icy Chim T 
L of Lochluster T 
Lochluster T 
M5? hand crack T 
Mixed Feelings T 
Mo' Flo' Than Go T 
R of Lochluster TR 
Replicant (unnamed) TR 
Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T 
Rock, Wood, Ice T 

Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) 

WI5+ M6+ R

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice
Consensus: WI5+ M6+ [details]
FA: unknown visionary
Season: late fall, winter
Page Views: 839
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Dec 20, 2005

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Getting back to vertical.

Description 

This is a fun TR line on the right side of the Loch Vale Gorge area. In some ways, it is reminiscent of Mixed Feelings.... When the choice lines are taken & you are itching for a pump, hang a TR & enjoy!

This line has probably been done before based upon the scratches & ease of access; however, no notation of it exists in the old J. Roberts' guide, C. Burns' guide, or either Gillett's guides. So, if you named or rated it previously, our apologies & we can change the info.

You can find this line just left of Rock, Wood, Ice & Icy Chim and starts below the overhang sporting a hanging icicle. Hike the trail in from Glacier Gorge & go right when you get to the cliff. Locate a thin corner with big flakes traversing right to the ice above the log start to Rock, Wood, Ice.

Get started up a thin corner off a block with a good right tool placement with a left tool stack on top. Reach up for the sloping ledge (crux), match, go for a higher edge, fire a leg up, get stable, move up to a great bucket, then find excellent holds traversing right towards the ice. Get set high & move right onto the thin ice. Try to get depumped on the now vertical ice and carefully go to the top. 2 trees with slings & biners may be rappelled or traverse left to the 2 bolt anchor.


Protection 

Not much.


Toprope Protection 

Slings off 2 trees above, directional 13cm ice screw.



Photos of Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) Slideshow Add Photo
Believe it or not, the crux.
Believe it or not, the crux.
Jugs.
Jugs.
Worked this route recently, calling it M6 WI5+(AKA Lumber Jack). If this route was to sprout 2-3 bolts, it would be as good as Mixed Feelings. If the log falls, maybe it goes M6+.
Worked this route recently, calling it M6 WI5+(AKA...
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