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Shanty Cliff
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Rocinha 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b

   
Type: Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Sept 22, 2007, Jonathan Nickel
Page Views: 181
Submitted By: Johan on Sep 6, 2012
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Description 

Thin but bolted face climbing gains more featured face climbing that leads to a tight finger crack slashing the headwall. Very enjoyable.

The crack is the crux, though it's easier for tall people who can make longer use of the last good foot rail.


Location 

Starts at the left-most bolt line on the left side of the high dirt slope. Start on the ledge to the right of Soweto.

It's possible to set up a top-rope by rapping in from above after topping out Soweto. (The Rocinha anchor should not be used to TR Soweto, this would invite huge dangerous pendulums.)


Protection 

5 bolts and smaller cams. Probably best to bring gear to 1" or so. Quick-clip anchor.



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By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 10, 2012

cool climb. best line at shanty ive been on. agree that the finger crack crux at the top is easier if u are tall, which i am. it climbs more like a 9+/10a for me i guess. nice finger locks too.

By Jay Harrison
Dec 14, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

The crux is a crap shoot; dyno for the right spot and it's in the bag, hit it wrong and you're whippin'. Beware that thin slot, it doesn't hold gear well. I've watched a long whipper with gear-phht along the way.
This route earns its classic rating more from the wonderful movement leading to the crux than for the crux itself, but that's icing on the cake.