|Type:||Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10b/c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Sept 22, 2007, Jonathan Nickel|
|Submitted By:||Johan on Sep 6, 2012|
|Comments on Rocinha||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: Lake George, NY
Sep 10, 2012
|cool climb. best line at shanty ive been on. agree that the finger crack crux at the top is easier if u are tall, which i am. it climbs more like a 9+/10a for me i guess. nice finger locks too.|
By Jay Harrison
Dec 14, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
The crux is a crap shoot; dyno for the right spot and it's in the bag, hit it wrong and you're whippin'. Beware that thin slot, it doesn't hold gear well. I've watched a long whipper with gear-phht along the way.
This route earns its classic rating more from the wonderful movement leading to the crux than for the crux itself, but that's icing on the cake.