Note that the area to the left (north/west) of the Settore Ovest is off limits to climbing for protection of several species of raptors.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
If there was only time to hit a couple of crags in the Finale Ligure area, Rocca di Corno would have to be on the short list.
Aspects at this "horned fortress" range from east to mostly south making this a sunny destination, popular in winter, or, a place to chase the shade in the warmer months.
Historically one of the earlier places rock climbing took hold in the area, most likely due to the stunning presence of the cliff above the Fiumara valley.
Fun, improbably wonderful routes from really steep easy jug hauls, tufas, technical face, pockets, overhangs, pillars, cracks; this place has it all in a fairly compact area.
Nearly 100 routes, grades range from a number of high quality moderates in the 4c to 5c range, many classic 6ís, on up to 7b+ (and probably harder).
The area is broken into 4 sectors:
Settore Est: one pitch routes at this long, lower area to the right of the big face. Hot in sun in the morning. Good winter destination. Summer after the sun has passed.
Settore Sud-Est: purported to be heavily travelled due to classic easier routes. Older routes, plenty of interesting old iron and bolts. Around 8 one and two pitch routes wedged in a shadier corner of the big south face.
Settore Sud: the main, big face with stunning looking routes to three pitches. This is the view from the parking lot thatíll suck you up the trail.
Settore Ovest: noted for beautiful overhanging routes especially in the 5 and 6 grade range. Several two pitch options. Located on the far left (west) side of the big south face.
Note that there is a permanent ban on climbing for raptor protection on the crags to the NW of Settore Ovest.
From the beach at Finale Ligure, head from Finalpia to Calvisio. Turn right towards Verzi on a skinny road. After a kilometer, look for a parking lot and a signed dirt road on the left (east).
Either park and walk up the dirt road, or, drive for less than a kilometer and park in the obvious parking lot under the SE face of the looming Rocca di Corno.
Trails marked in red lead to the base of the crag. Note the Roman bridge.
Alternatively, one could drive from Feglino through Orco, then south to Calvisio.
A great face to corner climb.Stemming, huge holds, super steep (slightly overhanging), only chance of falling off might be from grinning so much...Climb up the flat, gray face and head for the big corner. Up the corner, stemming, grabbing jugs, enjoying the steepness.Amazing route on great rock....[more]Browse More Classics in International