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 ADVANCED
Video Bluff
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Ace T,TR 
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Robotics 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 566
Submitted By: rl23455 on Jan 1, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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Slide right out of that flare

Description 

The crux seems to be moving off the slope and getting into the corner.

Location 

Video Bluff, about the middle.

Protection 

Anchors at top, keep it short to protect the top of the climb.


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By another Chad
Jan 29, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I don't get it, where's the PG13 rating coming from? This is a top-rope only climb and one without any wild swings.


Chad
By Eric Jensen
Jun 23, 2011

I agree, this route is pretty well protected with the 3 chain anchor. It doesn't really take protection, so I wouldn't recommend leading this.
.
It's still wet on June 23rd.
By JesseT
From: Portland, OR
Dec 29, 2011

The first half of it takes gear OK (I did a mock lead on toprope). The problem is that the crux is high enough off of the last placement that a slip-up puts you in ground fall territory.
By Jcweinsx
From: Beaverton, Oregon
Jun 6, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

The crack looks inviting but don't be fooled. Do this once on TR if you want to climb a junky short lived crack that transitions to slick rock with moss and lichen. Or just skip it and be thankful you didn't have to climb this crappy route with a terrible finish. No pro after crack ends in middle of route, but plenty of slickness and blank rock.