Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Gyms - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
 ADVANCED
Robbins Boulder
 more Dirtbag Deals
Select Route:
Eric's Face 
Lie Detector 
Robbins Crack 

Robbins Crack 

5.10a

   
6,005 page views
Good page?   

Type: Trad, 35 feet
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
FA: Royal Robbins
Submitted By: david baker on Jan 31, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (71)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

4 year old Chris Lindner soloing Robbins Crack, 5....

Add Photo  Add Comment    Printer View

Current San Diego County Advisories MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This perfect hand crack is the Woodson classic. The rock is a little slick but keep your feet in the crack and you will have no problem. The crux is the first half of the climb. After the first 15 feet the crack widens for perect hands.


Protection 

Use #1 and 2 camalot. Some people do this as a high ball boulder problem. Crack is the same size the entire climb. There is a bolt anchor and rap rings at top of rock.



Photos of Robbins Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Climbing robbins crack

Climbing robbins crack

Phil Bard ( <a href='http://philbard.com' target='_blank' rel='nofollow' >philbard.com</a> ) belaying G. McCay on Robbins Crack 5.10a (early 80's) Photo: R. Barnes

Phil Bard ( philbard.com ) belaying G. McCa...

Josh warming up on Robbin's Crack.

Josh warming up on Robbin's Crack.

The classic robbin's crack.

The classic robbin's crack.

Robbins Crack

Robbins Crack


Comments on Robbins Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Feb 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a

As the story goes, in the 1960s Royal Robbins was shown this boulder, and it's striking 20ft crack. The cats that showed him the route boasted that they had already sent it, but didn't say that they did it via aid. It was that very day, that the Robbins Crack saw its first free ascent as bewildered eyes witnessed Royal's effort and so named the route.

By Bobby Fredin
Jun 23, 2006

If you want to add a little more to the climb start as a sit start. This makes for a nice additional move or two.

By 426
Mar 21, 2007

Crux is downclimbing, provided you did it without ropes...

By Brent Coe
From: La Mesa, CA
Jun 2, 2009

For me it likes .75 camalots, and definitely not #2.

By Josh Cameron
Aug 29, 2011

I thought I knew how to hand jam until I tried to climb this. It'll teach ya how to jam.

I've always used two #1 C4's on this climb. You could use a smaller cam or a nut in the off-fingers at the top if you wanted to. I'd like to see how you could get a #2 to fit into this crack.

I ran into Eric Beck at the Happy's a few years back and we got to talking about Mount Woodson. He told me that Robbins never climbed this route. The guys who did the first ascent just spread the rumor to get people to climb their route. Seeing how great the route is, the rumor seemed unnecessary.

By Sdm1568
From: Ca
Sep 26, 2012

I'm a terrible crack climber and this is one of my favorite climbs - I don't know if I'd ever consider soloing it though. The 4yr old kid in the picture makes me look like a 2 yr old haha.

By sdrockstar81
From: el cajon, CA
Oct 28, 2012

This crack accepts all forms of credit... Just insert and slide through!!!!

By ccross
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 13, 2012

For such a classic climb, I'm surprised how inconsistent the information is. Or maybe people just repeat what they heard and sometimes get it wrong.
35ft and 20 ft were listed here, and the guidebook says 24ft.
The Mountain Project description says the crack is the same size the entire climb, yet also says the crack widens for perfect hands after 15ft up.
Then there are comments on gear from .75 to 2.
Guess it's time for me to find out for myself next outing.