This perfect hand crack is the Woodson classic. The rock is a little slick but keep your feet in the crack and you will have no problem. The crux is the first half of the climb. After the first 15 feet the crack widens for perect hands.
Use #1 and 2 camalot. Some people do this as a high ball boulder problem. Crack is the same size the entire climb. There is a bolt anchor and rap rings at top of rock.
|Comments on Robbins Crack
|By Adam Stackhouse|
Feb 9, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a
As the story goes, in the 1960s Royal Robbins was shown this boulder, and it's striking 20ft crack. The cats that showed him the route boasted that they had already sent it, but didn't say that they did it via aid. It was that very day, that the Robbins Crack saw its first free ascent as bewildered eyes witnessed Royal's effort and so named the route.
|By Bobby Fredin|
Jun 23, 2006
If you want to add a little more to the climb start as a sit start. This makes for a nice additional move or two.
Mar 21, 2007
Crux is downclimbing, provided you did it without ropes...
|By Brent Coe|
From: La Mesa, CA
Jun 2, 2009
For me it likes .75 camalots, and definitely not #2.
|By Josh Cameron|
Aug 29, 2011
I thought I knew how to hand jam until I tried to climb this. It'll teach ya how to jam.
I've always used two #1 C4's on this climb. You could use a smaller cam or a nut in the off-fingers at the top if you wanted to. I'd like to see how you could get a #2 to fit into this crack.
I ran into Eric Beck at the Happy's a few years back and we got to talking about Mount Woodson. He told me that Robbins never climbed this route. The guys who did the first ascent just spread the rumor to get people to climb their route. Seeing how great the route is, the rumor seemed unnecessary.
From: el cajon, CA
Oct 28, 2012
This crack accepts all forms of credit... Just insert and slide through!!!!
From: San Diego, CA
Dec 13, 2012
For such a classic climb, I'm surprised how inconsistent the information is. Or maybe people just repeat what they heard and sometimes get it wrong.
35ft and 20 ft were listed here, and the guidebook says 24ft.
The Mountain Project description says the crack is the same size the entire climb, yet also says the crack widens for perfect hands after 15ft up.
Then there are comments on gear from .75 to 2.
Guess it's time for me to find out for myself next outing.
|By Adam Burch|
Dec 4, 2013
Josh is right, couple BD #1 C4s are perfect. I had DMM dragon cams, which are just a hair smaller (I think). I could have walked them up and down the majority of it. You could probably find an area for a .75 here and there, but #1 places with almost zero thought.