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Rob Roy 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Richard Harrison, et al
Page Views: 2,713
Submitted By: Todd Ritter on Sep 3, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Jason getting his on sight

Description 

Start 20 feet below and 15 feet left of a left facing corner system. Use the big cams you've been carrying in your pack for the belay anchor on this large, albeit exposed ledge. Move up the right trending features past the first bolt to a roof formed by the start of the left facing hanging corner. A blue alien protects the entry into this corner (somewhat spicy to and past this point, PG-13). Let the fun continue as you move up this left facing corner for the remainder of the pitch. Once established into the corner the pro is good. Wherever the crack closes down, there is a bolt you'll gladly clip. A nice ledge with anchors at the top of the pitch. 150' rappel puts you back at the base.

Protection 

RP's, Stoppers with extra medium, 2 of each cam from blue alien through 2.5 friend. 10 QD's


Photos of Rob Roy Slideshow Add Photo
Matt Kuehl only slightly swilled up on Rob Roy. Photo: Andy Hansen
Matt Kuehl only slightly swilled up on Rob Roy. Ph...
Jason on Rob Roy
Jason on Rob Roy

Comments on Rob Roy Add Comment
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By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 10, 2006
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13

Great route, but pretty spicy on lead. Make sure to pay careful attention after you pass the first bolt- pro is sparse and the climbing is tricky.

Above, you'll find a spectacular seam that seem to go forever!

Note: As of Sept '06, the rap station is in bad need of new webbing and new rap rings. If you get back there before I do, please take some and repair it! Thanks!
By Jeff G.
From: Fort Collins
Oct 2, 2007
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

This pitch is spectacular!! A great warm up for the harder and scarier Mai Tai. A decent #2 camelot protects the moves getting to the first bolt. The crux is getting established in the corner right of the bolt and is a little spicy but not desperate. The corner above has some beautiful climbing with moderate run outs between sections of very good gear and bolts. The rap station had two rings and decent webbing. Chains would be a great addition to this anchor. The bolts are all new and bomber.
By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Oct 28, 2008
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R

Really good route. The quasi direct start up a few laybacks in a left facing corner is not too bad, and crossing over to the left to get the bolt seemed solid. After clipping the bolt, I went straight up via thin face moves and entered the main corner system out right fairly high. If done this way, you are not going to get any pro until you are well up and established in the seam. You will deck, for sure if you blow it. But, at least three other people who were there crossed much lower into the corner and appeared to get some pretty good pro as described in the comments above. Anchor was adequate with fairly fresh webbing on 10/25/08
By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 28, 2008

The slabby section below the first bolt are solid moves and relatively grippy rock and didn't seem to get slick until after the first bolt. Starting directly below the bolt would provide an OK landing if you did happen to come off. Starting right in the corner (as Russ mentioned) looked much harder and would certainly provide a worse fall factor.

Crack seemed to take pro when needed and the route provided 2 bolts in the crack section which seemed somewhat unnecessary as passive pro was available. That said....just clip and go!
By smassey
From: CO
May 20, 2009

As of 19 May, Anchor did have chains on it. Nice pull too. Thanks much to whoever put them up. Cheers.
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jan 20, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

5.10b: Big cam under base for belay since you are pretty high on a ledge. Climb carefully to bolt with a spotter- you can get a big blue Camelot just left and above to back it up. Straight above and slightly left 8 feet is another horizontal that will take a 3 inch yellow or red Camelot - marginal but might hold. Few thin moves to right into corner and the rest is a cruise. Chains at belay as of January 2010.
By Kevin Dahlstrom
From: Fort Worth, TX
Mar 19, 2011

Fantastic route and bold lead. Once you clip the first bolt you have to make the crux moves without knowing when (or if) you'll get additional protection. Without any beta I seriously considered backing off. Once you get into the corner, the difficulty eases a bit but it still feels a little spicy all the way to the anchor. One of the best pitches I've done at Red Rocks. I look forward to trying Mai Tai.
By JC Schneider
Jan 6, 2013

Followed the topo (direct) to the first bolt (yikes) - the followers had an easier time coming in from the left. (May 2011)