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Roasting Affair  

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a R

   
Type: Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Harrison/Broussard '83
Season: any
Page Views: 176
Submitted By: SexPanther aka Kiedis on May 9, 2011
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Description 

Climb the initial easiness shared with Spiderline, build an anchor on hand-size cams on the left end of the ledge. Climb left, heading up to a (now) fat bolt on decent but thin holds. Climb the face above, looking intently for gear, then slab it out to the shared top ledge/tree with Spiderline. A heady, old-school route, but at least the bolt's good-it was solidly X-rated when I lead this on the original paper-thin SMC hanger and a shorty quarter-incher that left a long rust streak to remember it by. Thanks to the ASCA for the replacement.


Location 

Same start as Spiderline, walk the initial ledge left to anchor to start the route.


Protection 

Falling off prior to clipping the bolt would be a bad idea, but the crux comes afterward, on thin, flexing, crunchy holds. Some finger-size gear up higher helps you relax as the angle relents. Single rack and a long sling (4') for the tree up top keeps the sap off your rope.



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By SexPanther aka Kiedis
May 9, 2011

The 1/4 inch "coffin nail" broke off under hand tension as I tried to loosen the nut. The SS 1/2 with a Fixe hanger that's up there now is more reassuring.

Changed name on this one to the old guidebook version as of 3/12, had it listed as "Rasting Affair" but as Danny Meyers pointed out, that's probably not the name Wendell intended. Will ask him about it sometime, but hopefully this makes the MP page easier to match up to the guidebook.