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This 30-meter pitch throws it all at you -- a thuggy cave, vertical limestone drip climbing, and a slopey, sustained headwall with funk moves and pissy holds.
This is basically the first route you encounter when you walk into the Bauhaus Wall, straight in front of you out the belly of the ominous cave right above the approach trail. It has a bolt down low in the 25-foot approach slab, and is the right of two lines coming off that bolt (the left one being Huge -- green draw in situ).
Because of the weird angles and such on this route, it's a good idea to use extra long draws on many of the clips, especially near the lip of the cave.
Thuggy moves and lonnnnng reaches between good holds lead to a lip encounter at bolt 5 or 6 (slapping to underclings). Step up and shake out on the vertical plaque, then surge into the 13a headwall, which has an especially tricky move just *after* the last bolt, getting to the anchors (this is a good place to fall repeatedly!).
Stout for the grade.
Many, many draws (16-18), some of them double-length for rope drag. 60 meter rope mandatory.
|Comments on Roadside Prophet
|By Tank Evans|
Sep 27, 2011
rating: 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ E8 7a
Great pitch, one of the best in the canyon. The upper headwall is spectacular climbing.
Regarding the upgrade to 14a, for what it's worth, it felt harder than Living in Fear.