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Wheeler Gorge
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Unsorted Routes:

Roadside Distraction 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Brian Spiering (2008)
New Route: Yes
Season: year round
Page Views: 695
Submitted By: Brian S on May 28, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

The route starts between Blush and the road. Hard start, stick clip recommended, yields to easier and easier climbing.


Protection 

4 bolts to anchors. Bring quickdraws for the anchors.



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By Brian S
May 28, 2008

I added one bolt and anchors above the three existing bolts on 5/28/08. I decided to go straight up and avoid the sketchy bolt.

Since I got the FA, I would like to change to the name to "IED aka Roadside Distraction." I realize other people have put work into the route and would like to respect them. The name change might not be possible.

It could be easier than 12a. I would like people to get on it and get a consensus grade.

Another bolt might have to be added lower to make the route safer.

By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 8, 2008
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I was simply shocked by the rock quality on the bottom 20 feet of this route--the route is literally disintegrating. Two of us climbed, and in just one send each, 10 or 15 POUNDS of rock fell off the wall. This route still needs a lot of cleaning. Amazingly, the rock quality changes dramatically up top. The rock on the part of the route that Brian setup is quite nice.

I added two beefy rappel rings to the anchor bolts (please don't swipe these).

There's no way this route is 5.12, unless you count the sketch-factor created by the loose rock.

By Brian S
Jul 11, 2008

I thought it was a high 11. The guide listed it as 12b/c project which distorted my initial grading.

I am not scared of choss. On the other hand, my belayer(s) were terrified.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jul 30, 2008

Right on. Congrats on this. I don't know who told me it was 5.12. I think it was Reese. Anyway, it was a project and, as you have witnessed, routes tend to change around these parts.

So, now that y'all are psyched on cleaning stuff, you should fix up Monstrosity and 8 Lives. Also, that bolted thing up the road near the Black Wall is probably 10+ and would be fantastic with a little cleaning. And I'd say there are another couple of steep routes that could be done in that area. I'm suspecting it was bolted by Mike Gould, based on the bolts, which look like the ones he got from me.

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Jul 30, 2008

btw, I'm wondering how bad rock must be to shock someone living on the Central Coast.

Hey, if you guys are psyched to bolt choss, hit me up. There's a fair amount of stuff that I never got to. One good--harder--line would be the short schist line just north of the bridge. Bouldery, with lots of side-pulls and underclings. Also, the second tier right of the tunnel would yield a few good lines, but you'd have to bolt the slab underneath and add anchors across the ledge.

Let me know when you're finished and I'll plan a trip out.

Have fun!

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 24, 2009

Originally a Mike Gould & Tony Agulara project listed as 5.12b/c.