This area is Public Access by Permit Only and the permit is available for download: www.ct.gov/dep/lib/dep/stateparks/maps/saugatuckreservoirtra>>>. Please note climbing is not allowed on the Centennial Watershed State Forest, owned by the Aquarion Water Company or the Devils Den Preserve, owned by the Nature Conservancy. This cliff appears to be located in the C.W. State Forest. Climbing has been tolerated at this cliff but you could be asked to leave. Parking lots along Newton Turnpike (Rt. 53) close at sundown .
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This is the East-facing crag located just South of the Resevoir (which is South-East of the town of Redding) by Newtown Turnpike. This is a wooded crag with routes in the 30-60ft length right near the road. The rock is good quality but does not see very much traffic and can be slightly dirty in some areas.
This area suffers from a poor selection of options for anchors at the top. Ideally someone would put in some bolts. The vegetation (small mountain laurel trees and shrubs) is sketchy at best for TR anchors and getting good gear is not easy. Until bolts are installed your best bet for setting up a toprope is lots of webbing or static line...like 40ft or so.
From route 15/Merritt Parkway take the Westport/Weston exit and go North on Weston Road. This becomes Newtown Turnpike - follow this towards Redding. The crag will be on your left - look for it and park at one of the parking areas just before the reservoir.
The obvious small dihedral in the middle of the Big Wall. This route starts at the bottom of the dihedral. Stem up using good feet and hands for about 20 feet until the dihedral turns into a hands crack. Use the crack and face to get out of the dihedral and do some face moves to the top....[more]Browse More Classics in CT
I was out there today for the first time. Its an awesome area to take beginners to. I've been to the nearby Great Wall and always had a great time but there aren't too many options their to beginner or even intermediate climbers. The approach is super easy (especially in comparison to the route finding from Rt. 53 to the great wall) and parking was bountiful.
There are a ton of great looking cracks and lots of routes that look good. I setup two top ropes on routes and they were both on really solid looking cracks and were a lot of fun. The description mentions problems fining suitable anchors but I didn't find that to be the case at all. I used two 20' lengths of webbing for one of the anchors and 20' lengths and a 35' length for the other.
One thing mentioned before is the Permit situation for this area but in fact that permit is good to have but keep a low profile. Explicitly stated on the permit is a ban of rock climbing. But if we keep a low profile and clean up after ourselves we'll be allowed to fly under the radar.
I'll try to throw up some more photos soon and maybe even start adding more routes as I discover them. There's a ton of possibility here and I hope to get back soon and explore some more.
I'm 99% sure that Aquarion does own the cliff after speaking with the Assessor in Weston. Town of Weston property starts roughly 300ft. from rt 53 which, I would think is exactly to the top of the cliff. There's no online GIS mapping so it could be very difficult to tell for sure without actually going to town hall.
Aquarion parking lots close at sunset so be sure to leave the cliff BEFORE sunset otherwise your presence will be an issue. Same goes for Great Ledge (both parking lots).