Mountain Project Logo

Roadside Crag Closure, Why no change in status?

Original Post
Keith Boone · · Henderson, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 492

Roadside crag in Red River Gorge Kentucky has been closed since 2011 and it is a real shame. Some of my most memorable climbing was there. If "Roadside is privately owned by climbers", why is there no progress in getting this reopened. Who is the offical owner?

don'tchuffonme · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 26

Because for years, these people pleaded and pleaded with people not to turn their property into a shitshow and to no avail. If it were to open up, the same thing would happen and they know it. That's why it won't happen.

Keith Boone · · Henderson, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 492

It would be nice to see at least some dialog. I'm surprised organizations like the Access Fund can't assist. At this point the closures appear to be permanent. A lot of climbers are so short sighted they don't get involved when areas are at risk. I guess we will all eventually have to become gym climbers while our crags are purchased for put put golf and go cart courses.

NC Rock Climber · · The Oven, AKA Phoenix · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 60

While I am all for a dialogue, it is easy to see why this area was closed. Climbers trashed this place. If I owned it, I would do the exact same thing. During the 6 years that I frequented the RRG (05 - 11), I witnessed Roadside being loved to death and destroyed by hoards of climbers. Erosion, trash, excrement and general bad behavior were rampant. It became (at least in my mind) the definition of "shit-show." I hope that some day I can go back and climb there, but I completely understand and support the property owners position.

AccessFund HQ · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 30

Access Fund and Red River Gorge Climbers Coalition have been following this closure since 2011 and are actively exploring solutions with the landowners. We know this is a high priority for many climbers. At this point we can't say anything more. Such is the nature of access issues on private land - they often have to stay private until we find a solution.

Keith Boone · · Henderson, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 492

I just hope other RRG climbing areas are not loved to death. Everytime a crag closes, the result is hoards congregating at another one. There are stellar areas in RRG on private land such as Muir Valley, but it too always seems to be teetering on the edge.

KEN tucky · · Pewee Valley · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 60
Derek Lawrence · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 695

The sounds like great news for the Muir! One question - will dogs be allowed once FOMV owns the land?

Keith Boone · · Henderson, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 492

No offense, but I hope not. (Reference post about Roadside Crag)

Derek Lawrence wrote:The sounds like great news for the Muir! One question - will dogs be allowed once FOMV owns the land?
KEN tucky · · Pewee Valley · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 60

I agree with the no dog policy too.

M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

Agree with "no dogs" too. The way they tear around and dig nests is very destructive to popular crags. They are a big part of starting social trails too since they go where it is easiest for their four short legs to go and don't know to stay on trail and use the stone steps, usually excitedly tearing up and down the hillside instead. If I owned a crag I wouldn't allow them, and that is from someone who likes dogs.

As far as the Roadside, I feel for the owners, but frankly never thought they handled the situation very well if they wanted it to be open to the public. A few good signs explaining the situation could have been put up for starters, then roping off of sensitive areas while hardening others. While I was there at least, I never saw any evidence of that. There are a lot of idiots in the world who don't know how to be good guests though, so just deciding to say F it and close it down is reasonable and obviously within their right. As a landowner myself, having to tell idiots to not be slobs gets old quickly.

Optimistic · · New Paltz · Joined Aug 2007 · Points: 450

Plus, Muir Valley is so incredibly, magically QUIET! A excited or scared (what are my people doing up in the air? ruff! ruff!) barking dog down there would destroy that.

beaker · · Novi, MI · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 11

I'm really sad hearing everything that's happened to Roadside to get to the point of closure. I've never been there, but hear tons of good stories about the climbs that are there and would love to be able to climb there.

Just curious though.. what makes Roadside being on private land more susceptible to being destroyed than any other crag in the Red? I haven't seen (and certainly don't want to see!) other crags falling apart in this manner. What made this one get to this point?

Keith Boone · · Henderson, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 492
beaker wrote:I'm really sad hearing everything that's happened to Roadside to get to the point of closure. I've never been there, but hear tons of good stories about the climbs that are there and would love to be able to climb there. Just curious though.. what makes Roadside being on private land more susceptible to being destroyed than any other crag in the Red? I haven't seen (and certainly don't want to see!) other crags falling apart in this manner. What made this one get to this point?
It is no more suspect to damage than any other crag in the Gorge. The problem was that throngs tended to congregate there due to a combination of excellent/classic climbs, easy approaches and overhung walls that could be climbed in the rain. In my climbing circle it was the place to be. We respected the land, but you could tell there was very high traffic. With that said, I never saw litter, didn't see too many trails, and was personally highly surprised the property owners were experiencing so many issues.
Malcolm Daly · · Hailey, ID · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 380

If I recall crooectly, the landowners tried mightly to work with the climbers through pamphlets, sineage and clearly dillineated trails systems. There is only so much you (the lanowner) can do and I believe they did it. Signs were torn down, trails disregarded and dogs ran the place.

The same thing happened over at Torrent Falls, too, with a climbing landowner as well. The landowner asked for some basic respect, it was ignored or denied, so he closed it.

What are you gonna do?

Mal

NickinCO · · colorado · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 155
Keithb00ne wrote: It is no more suspect to damage than any other crag in the Gorge. The problem was that throngs tended to congregate there due to a combination of excellent/classic climbs, easy approaches and overhung walls that could be climbed in the rain. In my climbing circle it was the place to be. We respected the land, but you could tell there was very high traffic. With that said, I never saw litter, didn't see too many trails, and was personally highly surprised the property owners were experiencing so many issues.
The last time I was there (shortly before it closed) there was human shit all over, people breaking trees with hammocks, dogs running wild, and even a group with a boom box.

It was also one of my favorite places at the red and my first 5.12 (Ro Shampo)

Had no idea torrent falls closed (permanently?) also?

All of the red is only a matter of time… Surprised the Muir valley people haven't given up.
Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55
Optimistic wrote:Plus, Muir Valley is so incredibly, magically QUIET! A excited or scared (what are my people doing up in the air? ruff! ruff!) barking dog down there would destroy that.
Agree!
M Sprague · · New England · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 5,090

The sad truth is an unfortunately large segment of humanity are uncouth idiots who should be working in the salt mines. Boom box>>salt mine, improperly shitting at the crag>>>salt mine

RockinOut · · NY, NY · Joined May 2010 · Points: 100
Malcolm Daly wrote:The same thing happened over at Torrent Falls, too, with a climbing landowner as well. The landowner asked for some basic respect, it was ignored or denied, so he closed it.
When was Torrent falls closed for good? I was last climbing there in 2011. It was no longer under the control of the B&B/hotel, it was actually privately owned. You had to go to their climbing permit web site and apply for free online. This provided you with the code for the gate. There were plenty of other climbers there as well. It was all completed within 24hrs.
beaker · · Novi, MI · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 11
NickinCO wrote: The last time I was there (shortly before it closed) there was human shit all over, people breaking trees with hammocks, dogs running wild, and even a group with a boom box.
Wtf? Wow... I've spent a good amount of time at Muir and the PRMP and have rarely ever seen anything like this. It would of course be a huge travesty to have other crags at the Red destroyed like this.
Keith Boone · · Henderson, NV · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 492
NickinCO wrote: The last time I was there (shortly before it closed) there was human shit all over, people breaking trees with hammocks, dogs running wild, and even a group with a boom box. It was also one of my favorite places at the red and my first 5.12 (Ro Shampo) Had no idea torrent falls closed (permanently?) also? All of the red is only a matter of time… Surprised the Muir valley people haven't given up.
Ah, Ro Shampo, it was always on my tick list, but never got around to it.

People just don't get it. They do the same thing here in the desert. Dogs crap all over the trails, people short cut through the desert thinking it does no harm, and you eventually end up with a mess.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
Post a Reply to "Roadside Crag Closure, Why no change in status?"

Log In to Reply

Join the Community

Create your FREE account today!
Already have an account? Login to close this notice.

Get Started.