|Roadside Crag (CLOSED)
A beautiful dihedral crack. Scramble to a ledge, then jam, stem, and lieback past a belay station to the top and anchor off of a tree.
This crack protects extremely well. There is a belay about halfway up if you want to make it 2 pitches. On top there are slings & rap rings around the belay tree. You can rap the route in two rappels or make it in one rap with a 70m rope.
The route is the obvious huge dihedral where the approach trail meets the wall. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall.
Nic sailing up Roadside to retrieve another party'...
Roadside Attraction, you can see a climber getting...
Gary moves out of the #2 Camalot zone on Roa...
Roadside Attraction 5.7 at Roadside Crag
Oct 2007.. Top half of Roadside Attraction
climbing Roadside at night...
Beyond the first section.
Casey cruising roadside at about midnight...
An unknown climber follows Roadside Attraction (5....
Bradley Killough criuses up the first section.
BETA PHOTO: pic of route
|By Chris Chaney|
From: Arvada, Colorado
Sep 27, 2006
Don't belay from the tree at the first ledge. Not a good anchor and it won't last if people keep using it. Better to build an anchor in the crack at the ledge if you must split the climb into two pitches. There are bolt anchors at 60m on the higher ledge.
|By Jim Matt|
From: Indianapolis, IN
Dec 14, 2006
A couple of #2 Camalots protect the crack on the lower part perfectly. Climbing beyond the bolted rap/belay station isn't all that interesting. Fun jamming and liebacking to an exciting finish.
From: Chicago, IL
Jun 11, 2007
The bolted anchors are at 30m, not 60. You can rap with one 60m rope.
From: Milwaukee, WI
Oct 17, 2008
Great climb, easy access. Last weekend we ran a group of 6 up and down this with ease(I added an extra 2" to the sling salad on the little tree). Love the stemming!!!
PS- something very thin and interesting (maybe 5.12b or more)immediately to the left. Starts on thin horizontals and wanders left to a notch.
From: Decatur, GA
Oct 27, 2008
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c
Excellent climb, well worth making a second trip to Roadside to find it unoccupied. The hand jams are phenomenal!
|By Ben Bruestle|
From: Pueblo, CO
Oct 28, 2008
The belay/anchor tree at the top of the "second pitch" looks dead to me. Beware.
|By vanishing spy|
Nov 11, 2009
Not worth the hassle of topping this off, you'll need to break up the rappel and go off a tree. Stop at the bolted rap station.
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Nov 11, 2009
PLEASE DO NOT rap/belay off the little tree!!! Man up for this big O 5.7 and do it in one pitch! You can TR/Rap with a 60m rope so there is no need to break it up. I have cut enough slings off that thing over the past 10 years, and slowly watched it die. Really there is no need! If you need to break it up, go climb elsewhere
|By Ryan Justen|
From: St. Paul, MN
Jul 11, 2010
bring doubles in hand sizes (maybe even 3 #2 Camalots) and a large cam (#6 C4) is helpful when topping out, but certainly not necessary, even if you're timid
|By Shawn Heath|
From: Forchheim, Germany
Aug 17, 2010
I did this before learning how to handjam and I found it a little insecure down low. I'm going to go back sometime and do it in one go and jam like crazy. For those thinking about doing it, practice your jams on it! From what I remember, you couldn't ask for much better of an opportunity. I've been practicing my jams on New Yosemite, which is two grades harder. Don't be retarded like me. Also, don't place cams super deep on this route if you want them back. ;)
From: midcoast, maine
Mar 12, 2012
Best climb of this grade I have ever climbed.
|By Michael R Sweet|
Aug 23, 2013
Is Roadside open again? I am heading to the Red at the end of October (first time in 4 years) and a trip to the red is not complete without a run up roadside.