Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Wall of the '90s
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
.30-06 T 
Alone Time with my Banana S 
American Mustang S 
Black and Tan S 
Casual Stone S 
Centerfold S 
Curvaceous S 
Double Stout S 
Foxy S 
Goin' The Distance S 
Hey Good Lookin' S 
Hot Stuff S 
Interstellar Overdrive S 
Leftover Stuff S 
Litlle Kitten S 
Mission Impossible S 
Mission Overdrive S 
Porn Queen S 
Pretty Woman S 
Recovery S 
Reefer Madness S 
Roadrunner T 
Slender Babe S 
Slinky S 
Stone Free S,TR 
Sweet Thing S 
Ten-Digit Dialing S 
Vixen S 
Wet Dream S 
Wiled Horses T 
Y2K S 

Roadrunner 

YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 105'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11- French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VIII+ British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Craig Lightburn (and possibly Mason Frischette), '70s?, George Bracksieck & Steve Sarns, 1978? Jeff Achey and Kent Lugbill, Jan 1981?
Page Views: 6,025
Submitted By: Casey Bernal on May 11, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Left crack is 30.06.
Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

EDIT: actually is named Roadrunner and the left crack is .30-06.

This is the right of the two distinctive cracks on the right side of the wall, the left one being ".30-06" (aka "thirty aught six"). Despite the not-so-classic parts (bird poo, loose rocks, lichen) it is a super-sexy Clear Creek classic and not to be missed. From the ledge system, start under a fixed head and work up a funky crack to the cave. If you have a big reach, you can place a good finger sized piece before committing to the moves at the fixed head. There are several questionable blocks and the gear is sometimes difficult to place, but can be solid with tricky cams, offset cams or tricky bomber nuts. One could belay at the cave, or with careful rope management one can continue up the roof section. Traverse the huge roof with bomber pro and back clean if doing it as one pitch. Clip the bolt to keep your rope out of the crack and climb the beautiful overhanging crack to the nice summit ledge. There are two old cold-shuts and one new bolt w/chain. In my opinion the crux is not the OW, but the thin crack just above.

Descent: Loose walk-off or rap with two ropes (it is possible to rap with a 60m and swing into the ledge, a 70m provides much more comfort, ! KNOT YOUR ENDS ! ).


Protection 

Nuts, hexes, set of cams from micro to fist (double cams if doing it as one pitch). The crack undulates often and passive pro can be more bomber than SLCDs. A few runners. No OW pro necessary.



Photos of Roadrunner Slideshow Add Photo
Mike Keegan nearing the wide section, just below the bolt above the roof.
Mike Keegan nearing the wide section, just below t...
Jack on the 1st pitch.
Jack on the 1st pitch.
Checkin' out the wide slot above.
Checkin' out the wide slot above.
Leading pitch 2...just before the French free section :-(
Leading pitch 2...just before the French free sect...
In 1978, George Bracksieck is pictured successfully freeing p.2 of what later became known as "Roadrunner." <br /> <br />Photo by Steve Sarns.
In 1978, George Bracksieck is pictured successfull...
Comments on Roadrunner Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 20, 2013
By Anonymous Coward
Jul 18, 2002

All this info and no mention of Thirty Aught Six. The best crack in the canyon.

By Bryson Slothower
May 13, 2003

Is 30 aught 6 one of the two cracks on the right hand side of the crag? One has a huge roof on P. 2 and the one to its left has what looks like an overhanging hand crack for its second pitch. I did the first pitch of the crack on the left up to a three piton anchor with slings and it was decent and the second looked awesome but wet...beta???, I lost my guidebook....

By Bryson Slothower
Jul 7, 2003

The right hand crack is 30 aught 6, 11b and the upper pitch looks awesome. The first pitch looks like choss. The 1st pitch of Road Runner is quite good though and is more like 10-, not 11d as suggested in Rolofson's guide.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 2, 2004
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Gear Alert

7/30/04:installed 3/8" x 3" bolt with chain (primed and painted) to existing two cold shut rap anchor. One of the two existing bolts can be spun in its hole by fingers (try it) and is sticking out 1/4" the other one is ok.

By Lon Black
Apr 16, 2006

Excellent line. Definitely a one pitch line with a 70m rope. Extend the two cams you'll likely place at the roof section and don't extend a runner when you clip the bolt after the roof. This will from going into the crack and keep the rope from having too much drag. Might save a #4 Camalot for the last piece before getting to the anchor. A #3 works too, but covers up the better jam.

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Mar 27, 2007

It looks like I got the name a little off. I guess the true spelling should be: .30-06 and pronounced "thirty aught six".

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.30-06_Springfield

I guess you could use the technical name or the pronunciation. Feel free to correct it to which ever you (or the FA) wants.

This line is definitely one of my favorites in the canyon.

By reboot
From: Westminster, CO
Jul 6, 2007

Errr, tried doing this as a single pitch... and I don't recommend it. Basically, you can either screw your second with little protection on the roof traverse or give yourself rope drag from hell.

I don't know if there was a defined crux on this route, but the roof traverse has poor feet for a couple moves for shorter guys and once the roof is turned, the upper section gets pumpy (or was it because of my 40 lb rope drag?) I don't know why anybody bothered to mention the OW, cause, it ain't no OW.

There is a nut (#12 stopper?) right before turning the roof. It looks easily removable, but please don't (unless, of course, you put it there). This and the bolt help keeping the rope from getting stuck in the roof crack.

By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Jun 29, 2008

FA: Jeff Achey and Kent Lugbill, Jan 1981. Royal Robbins is old, these guys would kick your ass (not that Royal Robbins wouldn't).

By Adrian Weaver
From: Buena Vista Co
Sep 18, 2008

The fixed head at the start is now gone. It fell out when my friend unclipped the the draw from it. The top half of this route is awesome!

By slim
Administrator
Aug 17, 2009

I'm pretty sure Craig Lightburn (and possibly Mason Frischette?) climbed this in the mid '70s, as well as possibly others. It is probably the most obvious line in the canyon, and there were a few folks venturing into it during that time.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

Most likely, Slim.
Hell, it was probably done in the '60s.

By Devan Johnson
Apr 6, 2010
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

This might be one of the top 5 crack pitches in the Front Range at the grade, a true gem. And I've never seen anyone on it.

Bomber anchors at top thanks to Darren's hard work!

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Jul 13, 2010

Hmmm, maybe I can blame falling on the rope drag? I didn't really notice it, even though I did this climb as one pitch. Probably I had the 40 lbs of rope drag Shumin mentions and just thought I was being weak.... Doing it on toprope afterward was MUCH easier.

This is completely possible to lead and lower with a 60m. Just don't miss the ledge!

Fantastic roof and steep crack! The line was begging me to climb it.

By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Aug 17, 2010
rating: 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c

Excellent pitch. As for the "rope drag", if you use a 48" sling on both the webbing (bail tat?) under the roof, and then another 48" on your first piece in the roof; The drag should be pretty minimal.

I used 1 #4 Camalot in the wide part before the roof, and nothing smaller than a #0.5 Camalot.

By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Mar 21, 2012

I agree, it is totally do-able to lead as one pitch without bad rope drag or screwing the second. I've done so twice. Put your first piece in the roof as far out as you can reach from the stance, and put a 36" runner on it, and you're good. True, if your second falls, you'll have to lower them back to the ledge, but that would happen no matter what you did to protect that section.

Oh, and make sure to clip the bolt with a short draw as you turn the roof! This is key to keeping your rope from getting sucked into the crack.

By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
May 5, 2012
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ E3 5c

Great route, no doubt one of the better cracks we have climbed in the Denver area. From the ground, it looks a lot wider than it was, we brought BD #4, never placed it. The move after the bolt in the roof, it could be placed there, but it seems to be in your way.

By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 20, 2013

Excellent route! Currently has a bit of bird poop on the lower part, around the suspect stacked blocks (which are avoidable if you try). Agreed that a #4 isn't necessary. I took one and didn't place it. Starting into the roof will be more difficult for shorter people.