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Bort S 
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Road to Utopia T 
Todd Gordon Memorial Chossy Pile of Radness (aka The Big Todd) TR 

Road to Utopia 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Bolted by Todd Gordon, chopped by ?
Page Views: 411
Submitted By: Blitzo on Feb 4, 2010

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"Road to Utopia".
Photo by Blitzo.

Description 

This is the first route one comes to after scrambling to the base of the cliff.
It's hard to distinguish now that the bolts are gone. It's about 20 feet left of a short chimney. Follow big holds to incipient cracks where pro may be placed. Ends at the top of a ramp, witch can be used for descent.

Protection 

Bolts have been chopped. Can be led on small to med. pro. Easily Top Roped.


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By shelby beardslee
From: 29 Palms, CA
Oct 15, 2010

Scramble around left to get to the bolts on top and use these to top rope. Fun little climb nice and juggy easy approach.
By Larry
From: SoAZ
Jan 7, 2011

There's a Very Interesting second pitch up the down-flaring chimney slightly left.