|Sunshine Wall (River Road area)
Road to Nowhere
|Type: ||Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Damon Johnson, Summer Colt, 2004|
|Season: ||Spring / Fall|
|Page Views: ||410|
|Submitted By: ||John Peterson on Mar 26, 2011|
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John and Chad on the last pitch of Road To Nowhere...
This is the leftmost route at the Sunshine Slabs.
P1: Start next to Sandstoner's Highway working up and left through sometimes questionable rock to a belay about 20' right of a pine tree (100'). Some wires nuts / medium small cams can be used in addition to the 4 bolts. (5.8)
P2: Climb up and right, past about 11 bolts, to the top. There is an intermediate belay available, but it is not needed. This is mostly 5.8 with a couple of harder spots.
Rap 3 times on a 60m rope. You can take the 2nd rap to the ledge on Sandstoners for a better anchor. A 70m rope would let you combine the first 2 raps.
Bolts plus some medium wires / cams.
Jess, just below the second rap anchors.
|Comments on Road to Nowhere
From: Durango, CO
Feb 22, 2012
Unless you really want to get to the top anchors, you could traverse right at the last bolt before the RTN anchor and belay at the top of Sandstoner's anchors instead. From there, you could rap Sandstoner's twice with a 60m to get down.
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 28, 2013
Very runout and loose rock, I would skip this as you first climb at the cliff and start on the others.