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 ADVANCED
Sunshine Wall (River Road area)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Mad Cowboy Disease T,S 
Manic Monday T,S 
Road to Nowhere T,S 
Sandstoner's Highway S 
Shock and Awe S 
Smoking Gun S 
Wide Open Spaces T,S 

Road to Nowhere 

YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 16 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Damon Johnson, Summer Colt, 2004
Season: Spring / Fall
Page Views: 470
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 26, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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John and Chad on the last pitch of Road To Nowhere...

Description 

This is the leftmost route at the Sunshine Slabs.

P1: Start next to Sandstoner's Highway working up and left through sometimes questionable rock to a belay about 20' right of a pine tree (100'). Some wires nuts / medium small cams can be used in addition to the 4 bolts. (5.8)

P2: Climb up and right, past about 11 bolts, to the top. There is an intermediate belay available, but it is not needed. This is mostly 5.8 with a couple of harder spots.

Rap 3 times on a 60m rope. You can take the 2nd rap to the ledge on Sandstoners for a better anchor. A 70m rope would let you combine the first 2 raps.

Protection 

Bolts plus some medium wires / cams.


Photos of Road to Nowhere Slideshow Add Photo
Jess @ the first belay.
Jess @ the first belay.
Jess, just below the second rap anchors.
Jess, just below the second rap anchors.

Comments on Road to Nowhere Add Comment
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By S.Mckinna
From: Durango, CO
Feb 22, 2012

Unless you really want to get to the top anchors, you could traverse right at the last bolt before the RTN anchor and belay at the top of Sandstoner's anchors instead. From there, you could rap Sandstoner's twice with a 60m to get down.
By coop
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Oct 28, 2013

Very runout and loose rock, I would skip this as you first climb at the cliff and start on the others.