Road To Emmaus 5.11a/b
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| Type: | Sport, 2 pitches, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11a/b [details] |
| FA: | Nelson, Rolofson, 2000 |
| Submitted By: | Chris Beh on Aug 10, 2008 |
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Description This is the last route at the top of the hill. The second pitch climbs through the attractive, green double roof high on the wall.
P1. Climb over the low roof, 11a/b, and then up the wall above with another 10+ move. 7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.
P2. Move up the right hand line of bolts, above the belay. The first roof is the crux, 11a/b, with a big reach to a jug, get a shake above with more fun moves climbing up and right through a 2nd roof, 10+, finishes with 30 feet of fun, exposed 9+. 8 bolts to the lowering anchor.
Protection P1 - 7 bolts. P2 - 8 bolts.
| Comments on Road To Emmaus |
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By Chris Beh
Aug 10, 2008
| Mark rates the 2nd pitch of this route 11d in his guide. It looks like from the way they bolted it they were contriving a bouldery, lip encounter on the first roof. I used a big undercling on the right and it feels like easy 11, much easier than, say, Crash Test Blonde at Security Risk...but very, very fun.
The 1st pitch of New Test of Men can be linked with the 2nd pitch of this route as one pitch. Don't clip the belay bolts as you go by the anchor at the top of the 1st pitch. A 70M rope will lower to the ground from the top. I think a 60M might work for the lower, too, but I haven't tried it. It makes for a pretty fun, long pitch and a good warm up for the crag. Take 16 draws. |
By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 22, 2008
rating: 5.11a
| I agree with Chris -- 2nd pitch is easy 11 and using the undercling/sidepull follows the line naturally. 2nd pitch is one of the best jug hauls in Boulder Canyon at the grade. The fun factor is very high on this one. Probably the best "easy" route at Easter Rock. |
By Brian Adzima
From: Pittsburgh
Sep 10, 2009
| A 60m gets you to the ground with plenty to spare. |
By Chris Archer
Jul 28, 2010
rating: 5.11b
| Terrific climbing, but don't blow it getting to the first bolt. |
By Chris Archer
Jul 21, 2012
rating: 5.11b
| There was a chain on the first bolt for several years that eliminated the unneccesarily dangerous moves to the first bolt. Someone swiped it. Bring a stick clip, replacement chain or health insurance. |
By SteveZ
From: Arvada, CO
Oct 14, 2012
| For what it's worth, the chain on the first bolt is back. |
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