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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Road Narrows 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Joseffa Meir, Tony Bubb, 2001
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 281
Submitted By: Tony B on Nov 17, 2001
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BETA PHOTO: The View of the Upper Construction Zone dihedrals,...
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Refer to the directions to "P3 of Working Class Hero" to locate the "Upper Construction Zone" buttress.

At the very left hand side of the Upper Construction Zone, a large evergreen stands at the base of a rotten looking wall, just left of a rotten, shrub-choked left facing dihedral. This wall is even worse than it looks. The cracks directly behind the tree on the wall which become three parallel cracks (within reach of each other) are called "Three Lane Highway" (5.8, S). To the right the rock is generally better. The first good rock to the right about 10', is the first nice dihedral. This starts very small, but grows larger, is the route, "Bottlenecks" (5.9, *). A short way further right is a second, left-facing dihedral, "Cruising Lane" (5.6). Stepping further right still, you will pass under an overhang below a massive, clean right facing dihedral, which is one of the gems of the group, "P3 of Highway 61" (5.10). Further right of this route is another crack and dihedral system, this one with a few pods that slow down the leader a bit despite its easy grade this climb is "P3 of Working Class Hero" (5.8). If you care to start off one move as for P3 of Working Class Hero, but step to the right another 2 meters out over space, you will find yourself looking at an RP crack through a small overhang to and arete and crack system called "Road Narrows" the gem of the group, one with excellent movement.

Road Narrows is a reasonable lead to be done with a light rack that includes two 1" cams and some brass nuts. Traverse out and right from the right hand side (E/SE) end of the belay ledge to a seam and crack system, placing a piece in the crack of "Minor Delays Possible" along the short traverse. When you reach the thin crack through the overhang, use the crack and the arete on the left hand side to move up and over the bulge, and into a crack/didedral system. You will reach the top of the Upper Construction Zone buttress after 50 feet of good climbing.

To descend: From the top of the vertical rock, you scramble up and left (W/NW) to a large pine tree, at which there is a solid fixed rap station. This station is presently 2 independent tied slings around a solid tree and a single 'leaver biner'. It needs a quick link or two added or to replace the single biner present. Rap from this to the base of the Upper Construction Zone, then walk off in reverse of the description as for approach #3.


Protection 

Standard Eldo rack, plus small gear. The start can be protected well by placing a 1" or 3" cam in the base of P3 of Working Class Hero on the traverse to Road Narrows. At the base of Road Narrows I placed 3 good brass nuts on the FA and a reasonable 1" cam after one move up. After that, a standard rack will do.



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