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Man Who Loved Cat Dancing, The 
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Sport Pages 

Road Kill 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Hansen, Hladick-'81
Page Views: 913
Submitted By: Nate Christiansen on Jan 1, 2002
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Topher Donahue works his way up 'Road Kill' (5.10)...
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Description 

This route parallels Living Dead and Dead Boy and is just to the right of Living Dead. Climb the steep finger crack and move to the right of the crack on the very positive flakes. Is a little dirty towards the top of the pitch. TR or continue up.


Protection 

Stoppers, small and med, maybe some small or med Aliens could help.



Photos of Road Kill Slideshow Add Photo
Just below the crux section. The Book of the Dead (9+) chimney is to the left. The huge Isis dihedal is just visible through the tree at the top left.
Just below the crux section. The Book of the Dead ...
I'm posting this photo to show the nearby climbs, not Chuck's climbing prowess. <br /> <br />The wide crack system right of Chuck is Sports Pages, 5.8. The next crack left of Chuck is Living Dead 11b. The crux of Living Dead ends at the pink belay ledge up and a bit left of Chuck. The 10a second pitch of Living Dead continues up the same crack system. The short left-facing corner further left is Dead Boy 10b. Dead Boy traverse right to Living Dead below the bulging orange rock. Dead Boy Direct 11d continues up the Dead Boy crack system left of the orange bulge. Flaked Out 5.9 climbs flakes and cracks at the far left of the photo and traverses right near the top of the photo.
I'm posting this photo to show the nearby climbs, ...
The crux is completely over when you reach the flake left of the two tiny bushes. To get there involves a series of pretty hard moves starting from below Chuck. <br /> <br />Is it cheating to use the holds out right?  I don't think so, although I would consider it cheating to stem all the way over to Sports Pages, the wider crack on the right. Who's to say when natural crack climbs are this close to each other?
The crux is completely over when you reach the fla...
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By S. Kimball
Aug 15, 2003

Even if you stem off of nearby Sport's Pages, dropping the grade closer to 5.9, this still has good climbing. Add 2nd pich of Living Dead , better yet...

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jul 11, 2004

We thought this was a very nice route. The only negative is the proximity to Sports Pages. Although we didn't stem over to Sports Pages, we did use the right side of the rib that separates the two crack systems. This felt a bit like cheating but was the obvious thing to do.

Gillett describes a 10a second pitch that appears to be different than the second pitch of Living Dead. We read about this pitch in the car on the way home so didn't scope it out.

By SirVato
From: Boulder
Jun 12, 2006

Great route!! From the top, continue on the left-angling crack system to a second set of anchors. 70m rope helpful, not sure if a 60 will get down.

By Bill Flaherty
From: Evergreen, CO
May 29, 2009

Really fun pitch. Great pro, good moves, and you can play around on the Living Dead, a tough 11b next door, from the same bolted anchors. No need to step over into Sports Pages as I think one guidebook says, the crack is great all the way up, if a little veggie.

By slim
Administrator
Oct 12, 2010
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Very fun pitch, kind of feels like sport climbing more than crack climbing during the crux.