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Get ready for some variety!
Slab climbing leads to the first difficult move, an 11c mantle problem to gain the ledge above the first big roof. Rest well and then launch into the overhung crux slopefest. Actually, there are some good jugs on this section, although the sequence is a little devious. Route finding on a sport route, who would have thought! Finish by going straight up the final smooth bulge (11b), or wimp out and escape to the right, although the hard part is over.
This is a great route with lots of cool moves!
The first pitch is short, 3 bolts up to a belay on big ledge. Better yet, skip this by walking up the ledge from the left side to the belay. The upper pitch is 12 bolts and two bolt anchor. There is a 4 bolt 3rd pitch, 5.5 s.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jul 23, 2001
I'll agree with Alan that the crux pitch is only 11c. I had no trouble onsighting because all the clips were from nice stances (or could be clipped and downclimbed to rest). I consider this route one of the best in Clear Creek, an aesthetic line through a tiered roof of high quality rock!
|By Leo Paik|
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 5, 2003
There is a 9+ TR variation to the 1st pitch between Road Warrior and Road Kill for the bored.
|By Luke Evans|
Aug 25, 2005
Great movement on solid stone. I always thought this looked a little chossy (not the case at all). Super-fun, kinda pumpy, but there are great rests! I am not sure why there are anchors at about 20 ft. off of the ledge, because I did the route w/ a 60m from the ledge and it worked out fine.
From: San Diego, CA
May 20, 2009
Fantastic route with a little bit of everything! Felt solid for 11d for me through the bulge as its a devious sequence. It was a pretty warm 80+ day so that might add to the difficulty on this one since the crux has some sloper jugs.
Jun 11, 2010
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
I thought that pulling the lip after the roof is quite a bit easier than Hey Good Lookin' (Wall of the '90s), so it seems an 11c/d rating is appropriate. Getting over the bulge just below the anchors is rough after pumping through the roof. Still, the holds pulling the roof are good. Fun route to work out, and with some nice variety given that the beginning (after the first set of anchors) is slabby.
(I started at the first set of anchors, since climbing up to there just seemed pointless and my partner felt better belaying from those anchors.)
From: Boulder, CO
Sep 26, 2013
I found the first pitch to be thoughtfully bolted and well worth linking into the crux pitch!