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Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
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Roaches on the Wall T 
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Roaches on the Wall 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA--Jerry Hoover and Bob Bushart, 9/79 FFA--Rick Fleming, 5/80
Page Views: 2,132
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jul 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Scott Arno entering the crux of Roaches on the Wal...

Description 

Roaches is a Pitchoff must, as well as a bonafide Adirondack classic.

In the 90 feet of climbing offered here, you'll find a sporty right to left traverse into a brief crimpy face climbing section past a small piece of gear and a bolt. Next, a surprisingly easy roof is thrown at you capped with a striking finger crack crux that leads to the fun exit moves through a series of slopey cracks.

This route is a safe way to break into Adirondack 5.10s, and it is just plain fun to climb again, and again, and...you get the point!



Location 

From the approach trail, head directly straight up to the cliff aiming for a small terrace on the left side.

The route starts atop this terrace about 8 feet to the right of the low bolt at some not-so obvious face holds.

Protection 

1 Bolt and a standard rack to a yellow Camalot.

Chain anchors at the top.


Photos of Roaches on the Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Paul Roberts right below the crux of Roaches on th...
Paul Roberts right below the crux of Roaches on th...

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By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree that this is a safe route to break into 5.10 on. The crux is high enough for there to be a lot of room for a fall, on pretty vertical terrain, and well protected (I found micro-cams helpful). As well, the crux is short-lived.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 16, 2014

This is old-school 5.10; it ain't no weenie Red Rocks clip-up.
By Dominic Rickicki
Apr 19, 2015

Trying to on-sight the crux of this is sort of like accidentally sticking your hand in a bees nest. At first you're a little surprised, then you get nervous and contemplative and then you have to make the decision to move out carefully without upsetting the hive... or run around getting stung. That being said, there is a pot of honey at the top and it's worth a few stings.
By JonP756
From: Mahwah, NJ
Jun 25, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

This climb is a sandbag as an onsight espppppecially if you have bigger fingers! Once you figure out the moves, 5.10b sounds semi appropriate. Legend has it that Russ Raffa flailed on this thing on his onsight attempt! This one is about a G rated as it gets though!
By rocknice2
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jul 5, 2015
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13

Definitely not a safe way to break into 5.10
The start has a finger traverse without any real feet for about 20'. The only stance along the horizontal crack from which you can protect from is once your directly under the bolt. At least there are some large boulders to land on. 😡
After that the climb is G rated.
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