Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Pitchoff Chimney Cliff
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bogosity (Link-up) T 
Coffee Achievers T 
Disputed, The T 
Dynamo Hum T 
El, The T 
Flying Squirrels T 
Great Chimney T 
Lonely, The T 
Pete's Farewell T 
PF Flyers T 
Raging Raven S 
Roaches on the Wall T 
Rock and Roll Star T 
Star Sailor T 
Wald-Calder Route T 

Roaches on the Wall 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA--Jerry Hoover and Bob Bushart, 9/79 FFA--Rick Fleming, 5/80
Page Views: 1,784
Submitted By: Chris Duca on Jul 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (28)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Scott Arno entering the crux of Roaches on the Wal...

Description 

Roaches is a Pitchoff must, as well as a bonafide Adirondack classic.

In the 90 feet of climbing offered here, you'll find a sporty right to left traverse into a brief crimpy face climbing section past a small piece of gear and a bolt. Next, a surprisingly easy roof is thrown at you capped with a striking finger crack crux that leads to the fun exit moves through a series of slopey cracks.

This route is a safe way to break into Adirondack 5.10s, and it is just plain fun to climb again, and again, and...you get the point!



Location 

From the approach trail, head directly straight up to the cliff aiming for a small terrace on the left side.

The route starts atop this terrace about 8 feet to the right of the low bolt at some not-so obvious face holds.

Protection 

1 Bolt and a standard rack to a yellow Camalot.

Chain anchors at the top.


Photos of Roaches on the Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Paul Roberts right below the crux of Roaches on the Wall
Paul Roberts right below the crux of Roaches on th...

Comments on Roaches on the Wall Add Comment
Show which comments
By Greg Kuchyt
From: Richmond, VT
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

I agree that this is a safe route to break into 5.10 on. The crux is high enough for there to be a lot of room for a fall, on pretty vertical terrain, and well protected (I found micro-cams helpful). As well, the crux is short-lived.
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Jan 16, 2014

This is old-school 5.10; it ain't no weenie Red Rocks clip-up.