Roaches on the Wall
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Roaches is a Pitchoff must, as well as a bonafide Adirondack classic.
In the 90 feet of climbing offered here, you'll find a sporty right to left traverse into a brief crimpy face climbing section past a small piece of gear and a bolt. Next, a surprisingly easy roof is thrown at you capped with a striking finger crack crux that leads to the fun exit moves through a series of slopey cracks.
This route is a safe way to break into Adirondack 5.10s, and it is just plain fun to climb again, and again, and...you get the point!
From the approach trail, head directly straight up to the cliff aiming for a small terrace on the left side.
The route starts atop this terrace about 8 feet to the right of the low bolt at some not-so obvious face holds.
1 Bolt and a standard rack to a yellow Camalot.
Chain anchors at the top.
Paul Roberts right below the crux of Roaches on th...
|Comments on Roaches on the Wall
|By Greg Kuchyt|
Aug 3, 2010
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b
I agree that this is a safe route to break into 5.10 on. The crux is high enough for there to be a lot of room for a fall, on pretty vertical terrain, and well protected (I found micro-cams helpful). As well, the crux is short-lived.