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Ed and Terry Wall
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Roaches on a Face 
Vote for Your Mom 
Y Crack, The 

Roaches on a Face 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b PG13

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Bart Dahneke
Page Views: 869
Submitted By: Christian Knight on May 8, 2008
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BETA PHOTO: 19 Roaches on a Face 5.10d R


The bolts may be far apart but the potential to deck is quite low. Exciting moves to the lip of the overhang. Beautiful face climbing on immaculate quartzite. Gives you a proper lead head and a sense of accomplishment. Just commit and you'll see.


Blank looking face in the middle of the wall. Climbs through the middle of the overhang right of Main Crack. Lower or rappel off with a 60 meter rope.


4 bolts to chain anchors. You can place some small gear between the bolts.

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By Perin Blanchard
From: Orem, UT
May 9, 2008

An intimidating and exhilarating climb.

I wouldn't call it a sport route. I slung a couple of horns and used (very) small nuts before the bolts, between the first and second bolts, and above the bolts. If you don't use the gear...Christian is right, the potential for decking is remote, but a fall would be long and potentially damaging. But if you use gear, this route isn't R-rated.

The roof is intimidating, but surprisingly, turning it is not the most difficult bit.

By AJ Dexter
From: Portland, OR
Sep 5, 2008

Super awesome climb. Some commitment and you can work out the "blank" section for sure. Definitely recommend gear placements if you are squeamish.

By Tim Moore
Mar 13, 2014

I'd highly recommend not climbing this without gear as there are only 4 bolts each spaced out about 15 feet apart. The start to the first bolt is about twenty feet.