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 ADVANCED
Roadside Crag (CLOSED)
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Ro Shampo 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: J. Baker, J. Link
Page Views: 8,675
Submitted By: Mike on Sep 17, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (107)
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SteveZ with cool lighting on Ro Shampo before his ...
Closed to Climbing MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A stellar sport route. Climb up steep face on plates and edges to chains. Easy for the grade, it felt more like a solid 5.11 in my opinion. A great lead for someone trying to break into the grade, especially if you have a big reach.


Protection 

Well bolted with a chain anchor.


Location 

Continue right on the appoach trail past the 5.10 wall to the overhanging wall just right of Harder Than Your Husband. Shares the first bolt with Tic Tac Toe. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall at the start of Roadside Attraction.



Photos of Ro Shampo Slideshow Add Photo
Staring at what I think is the crux of this route.
Staring at what I think is the crux of this route.
Eyeballing the crux finish holds. October 2010.
Eyeballing the crux finish holds. October 2010.
rock-papers-scissors
rock-papers-scissors
SteveZ at the crux of Ro Shampo, Roadside Crag, RRG.  October '08.
SteveZ at the crux of Ro Shampo, Roadside Crag, RR...
Otey onsighting...
Otey onsighting...
Ben making the swing.  2 of 3.  October '08.
Ben making the swing. 2 of 3. October '08.
SteveZ working out the crux move on Ro just prior to sending.  October '08.
SteveZ working out the crux move on Ro just prior ...
3 of 10
BETA PHOTO: 3 of 10
10 of 10
BETA PHOTO: 10 of 10
Ben past the crux on Ro Shampo.  3 of 3.  October '08.
Ben past the crux on Ro Shampo. 3 of 3. October ...
before 3rd clip
before 3rd clip
Tony Bubb on Ro Shambo, (11c) at Roadside Crag in Red River Gorge, KY. Picture by Sonia Salgado, Circa 1992.
Tony Bubb on Ro Shambo, (11c) at Roadside Crag in ...
at the 3rd bolt
at the 3rd bolt
9 of 10
BETA PHOTO: 9 of 10
5 of 10
BETA PHOTO: 5 of 10
Dan setting up for the crux, fall 2006
Dan setting up for the crux, fall 2006
7 of 10
BETA PHOTO: 7 of 10
6 of 10
BETA PHOTO: 6 of 10
4 of 10
BETA PHOTO: 4 of 10
1 of 10
BETA PHOTO: 1 of 10
crux of ro
crux of ro
Jason pulling on for an onsight attempt...
Jason pulling on for an onsight attempt...
low on ro.
low on ro.
Clipping the second bolt
Clipping the second bolt
Cleaning Ro Shampo after a sunset send
Cleaning Ro Shampo after a sunset send
2 of 10
BETA PHOTO: 2 of 10
a good look at how steep this climb is
a good look at how steep this climb is
Stuck the left hand after a couple of attempts.
Stuck the left hand after a couple of attempts.
Kinda steep...
Kinda steep...
Lower Half of RoShampo by Ali Clark
Lower Half of RoShampo by Ali Clark
Bradley Killough workin the crux on Ro...
Bradley Killough workin the crux on Ro...
2nd or 3rd bolt
2nd or 3rd bolt
Ben low on Ro.  1 of 3.  October '08.
Ben low on Ro. 1 of 3. October '08.
John battling the steep.
John battling the steep.
Comments on Ro Shampo Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 18, 2013
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Sep 18, 2006
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

The upper part of the route has a few holds that can seep after a long period of heavy rains. The grade of this route is dubious and always has been. It goes static at 11c, and is well-fit for power climbers.

By 426
Apr 2, 2007

Sorta short for RRG route, this route is more p/e rather than enduro fest...

By Mike
From: Phoenix
Nov 14, 2007

I agree with Tony it is really more like solid 5.11 but was listed at 5.12a in the book so that's what I put in the description. Definitely easier if you have a good reach.

By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Jan 24, 2008

Im not a RRG local or anything but it feels like the 5.12a's ive climbed in New Hampshire... Maybe after climbing it a few times I'd find beta that could make it more moderate...

By doug rouse
From: Denver, CO.
Jan 9, 2009

Wow the pictures of this route are so good, I don't think I would even have to climb it to know what it is like. Kinda like Morrison on steriods!

By Joi-Bobby Laos
Aug 18, 2010

since this is considered a 5.11 "if you're reachy", then it'd be a solid 5.12 if your average (say 5'7, unless of course, being 5'7 isn't average...). i'm making my first trip out to RRG this weekend and i have my sites set on sending my first 5.12 (my goal for the end of summer). i've been doing a bit of research and actually saw this route on a video, looks like a lot of fun, hopefully i'll pass by the roadside crag.

By S. Neoh
Aug 18, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Go for it. It is a fun route. I am shorter than 5'7" and it still felt like hard 5.11 to me. I did the route 2nd try years and years ago, before the anchors got lowered by a few feet. I am 'local' to NH but have been visiting RRG the last few years.

Manifest Destiny over at Muir is a touch easier and is less chalked up than Ro.

By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Sep 28, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I was kinda hoping for some more beta photos on this route...

By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Jan 28, 2011
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

The pocket at the crux can be skipped with body english. Sprint to the chains, each hold is huge. Not 5.12 in my opinion.

By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Apr 7, 2012

We drove 3.5 hours from the New and flashed without even warming up. Not 12a, but fun.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Sep 18, 2012

Why are people still ticking routes at a closed cliff... I have no idea why this place got shut down...

By EricSchmidt
Apr 18, 2013

Tom probably cause they are ticking old sends..... I doubt anyone is climbing there illegally so stop getting your panties in a bunch!