RMNP Snow Conditions
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Thinking about doing the Tyndall Couloir up to the summit of Hallett's next weekend. Does anyone know what the snow stability is like in this area? I heard someone talking about reports of avalanches in RMNP but can't find anything about it. |
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At Dragon's Tail yesterday, there was a weak layer about 18" deep, but with the daytime warmth, that should be consolidating. However, the snow was REALLY soft up to about 11,000 feet, to the point that we bailed before really low around 7:00am as postholing on the lower angle stuff was really slowing us down. Reportedly it was better higher, but I can't really comment on that. |
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Brian Scoggins wrote:At Dragon's Tail yesterday, there was a weak layer about 18" deep, but with the daytime warmth, that should be consolidating. However, the snow was REALLY soft up to about 11,000 feet, to the point that we bailed before really low around 7:00am as postholing on the lower angle stuff was really slowing us down. Reportedly it was better higher, but I can't really comment on that. Definitely pack beacons, dig pits, and be careful. We saw a lot of evidence of point releases from the last week or so, and debris from one big slide, probably from a cornice collapse.Thanks for the info!! I may just wait a bit longer for things to consolidate since I don't have much alpine experience. |
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FWIW, on Saturday skied the Dragon Egg couloir on Meeker. We hiked in shoes to basin just below Chasm Lake, skinned across firm snow up towards the Flying Buttress, and booted up the Loft route in great climbing conditions. We arrived at the Loft around 7-30-8am. |
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Carl Dixon wrote:FWIW, on Saturday skied the Dragon Egg couloir on Meeker. We hiked in shoes to basin just below Chasm Lake, skinned across firm snow up towards the Flying Buttress, and booted up the Loft route in great climbing conditions. We arrived at the Loft around 7-30-8am.Thanks for the report...hopefully people keep chiming in as the week rolls on and I can make a more thorough decision on what to do for the weekend. |
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Brian Scoggins wrote: Definitely pack beacons, dig pits, and be careful. We saw a lot of evidence of point releases from the last week or so, and debris from one big slide, probably from a cornice collapse.no offense Brian, but the idea of "digging pits" is mostly irrelevant in overall snow decision-making (due to spatial variability) and especially in relation to the type of avalanche cycle and conditions present in the high country at the moment. The current avi cycle is a heat-related phenomenon and thus more dependent on clear nights (clouds prohibit cooling) with sloughs(D1-2) peaking from 11am-3pm in the heat of the day. Cornices are bigger than usual and dropping in most cirques- beware! |
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Eli Helmuth wrote: no offense Brian, but the idea of "digging pits" is mostly irrelevant in overall snow decision-making (due to spatial variability) and especially in relation to the type of avalanche cycle and conditions present in the high country at the moment. The current avi cycle is a heat-related phenomenon and thus more dependent on clear nights (clouds prohibit cooling) with sloughs(D1-2) peaking from 11am-3pm in the heat of the day. Cornices are bigger than usual and dropping in most cirques- beware!Understood. The point is if you don't know the habits of the snowpack you're visiting, (as is the case if you're asking about it on mountain project), then taking the time to check the conditions yourself as opposed to taking our word for it might be prudent. Can you suggest even a battery of tests that would give you the sort of season-long experience that you're bringing to bear? Or do you just suggest listening to locals and staying off the slopes? |
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Another problem with snow pits in general is that you really need to be on a similar aspect to what you will climb, especially this time of year when 24 hour melting temps at the bottom create different snow than some periodic freezing at the top. You can't really get the info you need from the pits unless you put yourself in some very dangerous situations. |
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Rick Blair wrote:Another problem with snow pits in general is that you really need to be on a similar aspect to what you will climb, especially this time of year when 24 hour melting temps at the bottom create different snow than some periodic freezing at the top. You can't really get the info you need from the pits unless you put yourself in some very dangerous situations. You are correct that these snow packs are difficult to analyze so often you do have to rely on locals observations and sometimes just stay off. That's just the way it is. Avalanche prediction is difficult.See Eli's previous post and agreed pits for 90% of the folks out there are pointless. Avalanche prediction is far from an exact science. Having avalanche awareness is much more important. |
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Hah, you are right, I guess I kind of repeated what Eli said, I guess the "spatial variability" comment went right over my head. |
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As it's an important topic, I'll speak more to this question in my next RMNP conditions update at ClimbingLife.com |
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Sorry to press the point, but if the best approach to making good decisions as it pertains to avalanche risk is to just listen to the locals, no wonder so many climbers get buried in the Himalaya. |
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Tyndall should be okay by next weekend; its the big open faces and bowls you have to watch out for over the next few weeks. |
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"Sorry to press the point, but if the best approach to making good decisions as it pertains to avalanche risk is to just listen to the locals, no wonder so many climbers get buried in the Himalaya. For the record, I'm not saying to just dig a pit, or to just do any one test (our pit didn't tell us anything, naturally, it was the column test that set off alarm bells, coupled with some isolated whoomphing, that was probably just the suncrust) and if they're all in the same spot, naturally you won't get a full picture." |
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Anyone care to share any conditions reports for Glacier Gorge. Planning on being in the park the end of the month and was planning on heading back that way to do Spearhead and Pagoda. And I am open to suggestions on other things to do in the park based on heavy snow conditions. Prefer alpine rock. Thanks! |
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I don't know Eli, my observations and notes count a few wide rippers around Climax, Rabbit Ears, Berthoud, and East Portal in the past two weeks, however I haven't been in the park in over 6 weeks so maybe you're seeing more stability at this point. |
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Jeff Mekolites wrote:Anyone care to share any conditions reports for Glacier Gorge. Planning on being in the park the end of the month and was planning on heading back that way to do Spearhead and Pagoda. And I am open to suggestions on other things to do in the park based on heavy snow conditions. Prefer alpine rock. Thanks!Jeff, sent you a PM. |
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Jeff Mekolites wrote:Anyone care to share any conditions reports for Glacier Gorge. Planning on being in the park the end of the month and was planning on heading back that way to do Spearhead and Pagoda. And I am open to suggestions on other things to do in the park based on heavy snow conditions. Prefer alpine rock. Thanks!As of last weekend the trail beyond Mills Lake was in ugly shape. Lots of deep, soft snow and occasional holes where torrents of meltwater were running underneath. It may get worse before it gets better. The bridge to Mills Lake is washed out, and the snow bridge that we crossed on will soon be gone. The rock's drying out, but ledges and shaded corners are still caked in snow. |
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I was in The Park yesterday (6/9/11). On the way in we didn't really need floatation, but the trails are a mess. We couldn't find the proper shortcut in the dark and fog/rain so we took the main trail around past Alberta Falls...got lost there too! |
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Are there any alpine rock routes that are reasonable right now? |