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May 29, 2014
Joe Keyser
Coming back home to CO for a few days. Heard it was a heavy snow year. Is it too early and wet for rock routes in the park/RMNP right now? Thx! Joe Keyser
From Scottsdale, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
902 points
May 29, 2014
another day in the park
Lumpy is fine and things above treeline are probably not ideal but maybe climbable if you caught a good day? Might be some seepage on various faces and plenty of snow on the approach/descent. Andy Nelson
From Fort Collins, Colorado
Joined Feb 6, 2013
318 points
May 29, 2014
Bocan
The park is melting and wet. Lots of rockfall in the Hallet cirque area Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
May 30, 2014
Joe Keyser
Thanks, that is what I was expecting to hear. Any good snow routes in good shape at the moment? Dream weaver, Alexander's? Joe Keyser
From Scottsdale, AZ
Joined Jan 1, 2001
902 points
May 30, 2014
Dreamweaver is in great shape! Chris Hills
Joined Dec 3, 2013
0 points
May 30, 2014
Me redpointing Power Series. This route is amazing...
I'm headed to Estes on Monday. My partner and I don't want to deal with too much snow, so we're going to spend our week on Lumpy Ridge. We have another trip in July/August when we will go after some high peaks. This will be our warm up.

Is Lumpy pretty dry? Should we plan on muddy snowy approaches/descents?

Thanks.
C. Archibald
Joined Apr 15, 2012
656 points
May 30, 2014
another day in RMNP
Chris, when were you on Dreamweaver? I was up there on Monday, and though there was ice forming on the steps, everything else was an absolute slog. Neve formation should not be too far off, but I wouldn't bother with it until then. Nodin deSaillan
From Boulder
Joined Mar 11, 2013
85 points
May 30, 2014
Bocan
Nodin deSaillan wrote:
Chris, when were you on Dreamweaver? I was up there on Monday, and though there was ice forming on the steps, everything else was an absolute slog. Neve formation should not be too far off, but I wouldn't bother with it until then.


Good to know!
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
May 30, 2014
I was up there the 25th I believe. Snow wasn't the best I'll admit. But the mixed steps where in fine form If I remember correctly. Chris Hills
Joined Dec 3, 2013
0 points
May 30, 2014
Lumpy is dry - no snow or mud on the approaches. Wally
From Denver
Joined Apr 12, 2006
31 points
May 30, 2014
Me redpointing Power Series. This route is amazing...
@wally - thanks C. Archibald
Joined Apr 15, 2012
656 points
Jun 2, 2014
Deep water 5.9+ jugs at a secret spot
Has anyone ventured out to Glacier Gorge yet? I'd like to jump on The Spearhead later this month but have some concern about the descent after the big winter we had. If anyone has some info I'd certainly appreciate it. Kyle Judson
From Colorado
Joined Jun 18, 2011
39 points
Jun 3, 2014
Kyle Judson wrote:
Has anyone ventured out to Glacier Gorge yet? I'd like to jump on The Spearhead later this month but have some concern about the descent after the big winter we had. If anyone has some info I'd certainly appreciate it.


Right now lots of snow on approach, avoid the blowdown area by staying in drainage and use snowshoes or skis. NE Ridge too wet and not in condition for rock climbing; main face still lots of snow melt. Waiting until end of month is a good idea. I wouldn't be overly concerned with the descent if you've managed to get in there.
slevin
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,048 points
Jun 3, 2014
I ran in to the drainage above black lake on Sunday to check the conditions on the spearhead. We encountered sustained deep soft snow from Mills lake to black lake, and more soft snow in the drainage. Lots of calf to knee deep postholeing, especially through the blowdown above Mills lake. I wanted to get up to the apron under the spearhead, but without flotation it was going to take a while to get up the drainage. It looks like once you get above the trees on that moraine, you'd be able to move a bit faster.

The NE ridge was holding some snow still where it meets the right edge of the barb flake. I wouldn't be surprised if there was still some snow on the first dihedral as well. Middle earth still has a substantial amount of snow, and, of course, the eye of Sauron is seeping like crazy. The descent looked like it was holding some snow, but like Steve said, if you made it that far, you'll probably be fine getting down. I'd be cautious on the decent because you'd probably be one of the first parties on that descent this season. It seems likely that there are some new bombs ready to come down.
Brad.mering
Joined Oct 19, 2007
31 points
Jun 3, 2014
How about the Petite Grepon. Anybody been on the Petite or up near the base of the Petite recently? Is the approach reasonable early morning without floatation? Wally
From Denver
Joined Apr 12, 2006
31 points
Jun 3, 2014
Bocan
Wally wrote:
How about the Petite Grepon. Anybody been on the Petite or up near the base of the Petite recently? Is the approach reasonable early morning without floatation?


Can't speak specifically to that area but everything I've experienced and read on 14ers.com /FB page etc is wallow wallow wallow across the board. And that's even with early starts. Nighttime temps have been high lately.
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Jun 3, 2014
Any insight on what Kieners would be like on Longs? Excessive postholing on the approach without flotation?Snow too slushy/deep/Avi prone on the couloirs even with an early start? Rock too wet? Thinking about doing it over the weekend. Any beta would be helpful. Thanks! Nobleman
From Denver,CO
Joined Nov 11, 2012
5 points
Jun 3, 2014
Bocan
Nobleman wrote:
Any insight on what Kieners would be like on Longs? Excessive postholing on the approach without flotation?Snow too slushy/deep/Avi prone on the couloirs even with an early start? Rock too wet? Thinking about doing it over the weekend. Any beta would be helpful. Thanks!


You might want to inquire here...

mountainproject.com/v/2014-col...
Scott McMahon
From Boulder, CO
Joined Feb 15, 2006
942 points
Jun 3, 2014
Deep water 5.9+ jugs at a secret spot
Brad.mering wrote:
I ran in to the drainage above black lake on Sunday to check the conditions on the spearhead. We encountered sustained deep soft snow from Mills lake to black lake, and more soft snow in the drainage. Lots of calf to knee deep postholeing, especially through the blowdown above Mills lake. I wanted to get up to the apron under the spearhead, but without flotation it was going to take a while to get up the drainage. It looks like once you get above the trees on that moraine, you'd be able to move a bit faster. The NE ridge was holding some snow still where it meets the right edge of the barb flake. I wouldn't be surprised if there was still some snow on the first dihedral as well. Middle earth still has a substantial amount of snow, and, of course, the eye of Sauron is seeping like crazy. The descent looked like it was holding some snow, but like Steve said, if you made it that far, you'll probably be fine getting down. I'd be cautious on the decent because you'd probably be one of the first parties on that descent this season. It seems likely that there are some new bombs ready to come down.


Steve, Brad, thanks for the info. Maybe it'll shape up in a few weeks!
Kyle Judson
From Colorado
Joined Jun 18, 2011
39 points
Jun 4, 2014
Thanks Scott! Wally
From Denver
Joined Apr 12, 2006
31 points
Jun 5, 2014
Ryan on the Sharks Fin wishing he was on Mt. White...
If anyone is headed up to Long's in the next few days a shot of Broadway would be much appreciated. I am curious as to how difficult it is to circumnavigate Chasm Lake and how much snow is on the N Chimney and or Crack of Delight. Ryan Kempf
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jul 26, 2011
348 points
Jun 12, 2014
swagging
Any updates? I'm hoping to do Spearhead on my birthday/the summer solstice (6/21). But I'm starting to get a little anxious that it's STILL going to be nasty and snowy up there... The Blueprint Part Dank
From FEMA Region VIII
Joined Jun 21, 2013
263 points
Jun 15, 2014
Deep water 5.9+ jugs at a secret spot
My buddy hiked into Black Lake yesterday (6/14). Sounds like there's pretty significant snowpack in the basin still. He also said there was a good amount of snow and seepage on the Spearhead still. We're trying for it in a couple weeks. Kyle Judson
From Colorado
Joined Jun 18, 2011
39 points
Jun 15, 2014
I climbed the north ridge on the Spearhead on friday. There is still significant snow through the blowdown between Mills Lake and Black lake, and a good bit of snow travel up the gully above Black. The bivy area is wet but manageable, with large sections that are snow free. We camped in a wind sheltered bivy, on dry rock.

More snow travel is required to get up to the base of the wall. There are small patches of snow and seepage down from middle earth, and the eye, but otherwise the wall was fairly dry. The north ridge was holding some bits of snow, but its easy to get around them. I think Sykes and the Barb would go fine. It looked like there was some good seepage down the first pitch of Sykes from the snow on middle earth, and there is definitely a little snow up under the roof. The stuff on the left (Spear me, All too obvious, etc) would be difficult and wet, especially down low.

The descent is definitely the crux right now without crampons. The decent gully is filled with snow. You can descend the dry rib in between the 2nd and 3rd gully almost all the way, and then rappel or downclimb the last 200 feet of 50 degree snow. The snow was soft, and I had no problem downsoloing it in my approach shoes, but I feel pretty comfortable on that kind of terrain. If you don't feel solid on snow, it might be a bit exciting. A light axe would give you some comfort both on the approach and the descent. The rock didn't feel any more loose than it always does up there.

I climbed with two fairly new climbers. They had limited snow travel experience. We didn't bring traction or axes, and they did fine. You have to be a bit tougher than normal. Its a longer day with the snow and wet, but it certainly isn't especially dangerous or difficult for a competent team, moving efficiently.

Bring extra socks, and maybe some webbing to rig a rappel for the gully. It feels like early season still up there, but its kind of nice to have the whole place to yourself.
Brad.mering
Joined Oct 19, 2007
31 points
Jun 15, 2014
Oh, and we met a team coming down from Petit. They reported little sustained snow on the approach to Petit, and dry conditions on the route. Not first hand, but I believe it. That route seems to dry out pretty fast, and the approach gets a lot of sun. Probably still some snow to deal with, but it sounds like a reasonable alternative if the snow on the spearhead seems like a pain to you. Brad.mering
Joined Oct 19, 2007
31 points
Jun 16, 2014
Climbed the petit yesterday. Lots of snow from the loch to sky pond but it was easy traveling as it was cold on saturday night. From sky pond, the approach was dry all the way to the petit. From the base of the petit, we had to climb less than 5 feet of snow to dry rock. We brought ice axes and never had to use them.

Have fun out there!
mtoensing
From Boulder
Joined Feb 25, 2006
826 points


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