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Jul 8, 2010
Anyone have beta/recommendations for nailing routes on the diamond or elsewhere in RMNP? PM me. Thanks! k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Joined Oct 3, 2006
92 points
Jul 8, 2010
Chris setting up the rappel in the Southeast Gully...
I climbed La Dulce Vita to Bright Star once. I freed the lower section of La Dulce Vita. Bright Star seemed like a pretty good route, but I didn't lead any of the aid pitches though. Heads up though, the route has gone free, so I'm sure there are some people out there that wouldn't appreciate you hammering pins on that one. Unless you're just dying to swing a hammer, clean aid is a better way to go on The Diamond: Less iron to carry in to the wall.

You might want to look into linking something on the lower east face (Grey Pillar) or the Chasm View Wall (Invisible Wall, 5.8 A4) with something on the Diamond.

Of all the aid routes on the Diamond, the only one I've heard of people actually climbing on a somewhat frequent basis is the Dunn-Westbay, but you might want to check out the Enos Mills Wall. The latter is closer to the center of the wall and thus has more vertical relief.
Chris Sheridan
From Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 18, 2006
1,635 points
Jul 8, 2010
Lost Cities 5.12a,Black Canyon,CO
Check out Mt Alice's main wall. NObody goes out there, so you could get away with bashing some iron if that's what you're into. Dunn-Westbay goes clean apparently, but that's not to say you couldn't tap a nail home here & there.....I did when I climbed it! justin dubois
From Estes Park
Joined Jan 2, 2001
625 points
Jul 8, 2010
Thanks guys for the advice.

Dunn-westbay is a straightforward clean aid line with bomber anchors. I imagine that for the other less popular lines, bringing a hammer is a really good idea for testing and replacing in situ fixed pins at hanging belays, especially if there is no other available clean gear.
Mt. Alice sounds like fun, I need to hike back there and check it out. Where could i get some beta on potential routes back there?
k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Joined Oct 3, 2006
92 points
Aug 1, 2010
There's some cool looking nailing lines on the Ships Prow. I've really been wanting to check out "The Bilge" 5.8/A3. Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Joined Jun 1, 2009
642 points
Aug 1, 2010
I like to practice my nailing skills on the little twin owls finger crack, there is plenty of good spots for pins of all sizes and shapes, plus you don't have to hike that far with all that iron


I climbed Jack of Diamonds years ago and I think we might of put in 1 pin total and probably could of done without it, it just sped things up, but I wouldnt be surprised if that goes free and soon.
JPVallone
Joined Aug 25, 2004
204 points
Aug 1, 2010
Im no ethics nazi, but I would venture to say that practicing nailing on a fairly classic free pitch like the little twin owls finger crack is not such a good idea. No harm, no foul, however, I would personally appreciate you not heading out to that pitch to practice your nailing. Dont know you JP, and Id guess your no spring chicken wall climber, just my perspective.

Dunn Westbay goes clean with a variety of cam hooks around C2(maybe +?).
Adam Baxter
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Sep 28, 2006
52 points
Aug 1, 2010
Thanks for the recommendations. However I'm not looking to nail up a free route...Preferably something too steep and thin to free.

Kevin L. PM sent.

Dunn-westbay is definitely an awesome route, with very easy clean aid IMHO. Definitely c2 if the 3 fixed heads are still in place.

Clean aid is superfun, but I would like some more experience in the black arts.
k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Joined Oct 3, 2006
92 points
 
Aug 1, 2010
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
Guess no one under 35 or 40 recognizes dark sarcasm... Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Joined Mar 4, 2008
313 points
Aug 2, 2010
Kevin Landolt wrote:
There's some cool looking nailing lines on the Ships Prow. I've really been wanting to check out "The Bilge" 5.8/A3.



Tommy C and Topher D recently freed three of those old aid lines on Ships Prow. Just an FYI.
Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Joined Oct 20, 2002
646 points
Aug 2, 2010
Eli on the FA of Grizzly (M9) at the Den.
I'd just go find some thin seam somewhere...they're littered all over every face in RMNP and no worries about nailing up a FA...
Was wondering if anyone would go for JP's 'trolling' humour - hahaha
Eli Helmuth
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Aug 12, 2001
1,028 points
Aug 2, 2010
Adam Baxter wrote:
Id guess your no spring chicken wall climber


What does that mean? :-)
JPVallone
Joined Aug 25, 2004
204 points
Aug 2, 2010
Any info on what lines Caldwell and crew freed? Kevin Landolt
From Fort Collins, Wyoming
Joined Jun 1, 2009
642 points
Aug 2, 2010
The routes are left of Sarcasm, at least one was a Gillett aid line. Gangway and the Bilge are the only two aid lines that meet that description.

JP is a trolling spring chicken.....Country Club crack is a way better route for nailing practice.
Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Joined Oct 20, 2002
646 points
Aug 2, 2010
Trundling a death block. Photo by Dan Gambino.
JPVallone wrote:
What does that mean? :-)



It means you're old now, dude....stop hucking off cliffs and pounding pins.....and start rocking in chairs and talking all "back in the day".



josh
J. Thompson
From denver, co
Joined Jan 1, 2001
1,739 points
Aug 2, 2010
Lost Cities 5.12a,Black Canyon,CO
k. riemondy wrote:
Dunn-westbay is definitely an awesome route, with very easy clean aid IMHO. Definitely c2 if the 3 fixed heads are still in place.

Dang I can't remember a single fixed head on this route. I was a bit sleepy though.
guess you're looking for something more like Smash The Stateish...
justin dubois
From Estes Park
Joined Jan 2, 2001
625 points
 
Aug 2, 2010
The heads were on the first aid pitch off of the bivy ledge. A stretch of three in a dihedral before you traverse the large flake. I imagine you could hook around them, but a fall there would be exciting.

Smash the state? I think i would like some more experience before I venture onto a Jim Beyer A5 on the diamond.

Maybe I'll just twiddle my thumbs until the black canyon and the desert cools down a bit. I guess i could learn how to free climb again...
k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Joined Oct 3, 2006
92 points
Aug 2, 2010
Yup, missed the sarcasm on that one. And this is me removing foot from mouth. I thought Jack of Diamonds was kind of serious ... Adam Baxter
From Estes Park, CO
Joined Sep 28, 2006
52 points
Aug 2, 2010
Mexico roadside rocks
I was going to say it too, that Tommy C and Topher D were freeing those routes on the Ships Prow since 2003. I was there watching the action.

Go big, step up to the Diamond.
CO_Michael
Joined May 31, 2008
1,020 points
Aug 3, 2010
Splitter Jams on the Israel/Palestine Security Wal...
Anyone interested in Dunn Westbay or something comparable on the Diamond in the next month or so?

I'm safe, experienced,but wall rusty.

Shawn
3oh3 9four6 65oh7.
Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Joined Mar 4, 2008
313 points
Aug 3, 2010
Lost Cities 5.12a,Black Canyon,CO
k. riemondy wrote:
The heads were on the first aid pitch off of the bivy ledge. A stretch of three in a dihedral before you traverse the large flake. I imagine you could hook around them, but a fall there would be exciting.


My partner ( and Diamond vet, Kevin Cooper)led that almost entirely free, and made it look quite easy.
justin dubois
From Estes Park
Joined Jan 2, 2001
625 points
Aug 3, 2010
justin dubois wrote:
My partner ( and Diamond vet, Kevin Cooper)led that almost entirely free, and made it look quite easy.


What the hell is free climbing? :) 5.5 is my onsight ability when i'm in aid mode. Nice work.
k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Joined Oct 3, 2006
92 points
Aug 3, 2010
I agree, it seems very straightforward. I would mostly like to get an aid fix without having to drive 22 hours to the valley. I don't have time for 1-2 week vacations.

It would also be nice to have some experience to avoid overdriving pins, leaving deadheads, fixing pins, etc.
k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Joined Oct 3, 2006
92 points
Aug 3, 2010
Yah i drive slow, and I've only been there when tioga pass is closed.

But really, do you know any el cap routes with nailing that can be done in 3-4 days from boulder by a guy asking for beta online?

Thanks for the useful advice about queen of spades. I'll look for it this weekend.
k. riemondy
From Boulder, Co
Joined Oct 3, 2006
92 points
 
Aug 12, 2010
Hey man you don't have to drive 13 hrs toget a nailing fix
pm me I know some great places to nail and no one gives two shits about it ,there somewhat local to us

That is all
bigwallrog
From the farside
Joined Jun 18, 2009
32 points
Administrator
Aug 12, 2010
Artist Tears P3
13 hours to valley, that's fast.

It takes me 10 hours to drive to Zion from Denver.
John McNamee
From Littleton, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2002
1,913 points


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