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BETA PHOTO: 1st pitch, right before you traverse over the larg...
P1 - Climb cracks and a short corner to a small overhang, then climb right on the top of the detached block. Or - scramble up the blocks leaning against the face to the right, to reach the same place. Up a crack (crux), then move left to a small ledge and tree.
P2 - From the belay tree, step up and left, then climb the nice face over a small bulge (crux) and up a small right-facing corner to a nice ledge and another tree.
P3 - Step left and climb the nice face past some old fixed pins (no need to clip, plenty of cam placements) with excellent gear to the top.
There may be a rap station at the top, but it's actually faster to descend to the left via Radcliff or Uberfall Descent.
Below some broken cracks and a partially detached block, just a bit right and down from Jackie and Classic.
Standard Gunks rack. G.
RMC's first pitch traverse to the anchor
|By Charlie S|
From: Ogden, UT
Aug 24, 2008
There's a lot of 5.5 for the climb. Definitely worth it. Can link first and second pitches.
Aug 24, 2008
I agree. Excellent lead for someone new to the Gunks, a little overhang, a bit of a thoughtful, sequency bulge, and a pleasant grab & haul finish. You can run P1 and P2 together. However for the new leader I would recommend doing it in 3 pitches, belaying at the small pine at the end of P1. This will lessen the chance of rope drag issues.
Nov 17, 2009
rating: 5.5 PG13
Williams gives P2 a G rating, maybe it was wet when I climbed it, but even with pins, the bulgey crux move was a tiny bit run-out, IMO. And the flake on P1 under the roof looks like it's not attached to anything - it was wet, so I kinda had to use ever so gently. I would avoid using it all costs when it's dry!
From: Wayne, PA
Apr 6, 2010
RMC is a great little climb for a moderate leader. It has a little bit of excitement as you exit under the roof, an exposed move over a bulge and then happy/easy climbing up to the top on the third pitch.
It's ususally open and the variety makes it a "must do" for any moderate leader.
From: New Paltz
Sep 18, 2010
This is a cool route, all the way to the top. I disagree with a prior comment: I would link P1 and P2. If you are belaying at the P1 tree and the leader falls off the crux move, he/she will hit both the belayer and the tree, most likely, and do so with about 10 feet of rope out. Safer to add a few long slings on P1 to deal with the drag, and just cruise on through to the P2 belay. Plus that little tree would prefer you leave it alone and just back up the pin above with a 2" cam.
Pretty committing crux move, too. The guy ahead of us backed off. I wouldn't want this to be my first 5.5 lead, for sure! Beautiful climb, though...
|By Dana Bartlett|
Mar 24, 2011
One of my favorite routes at the 'Gunks.
|By Barrett Stetson|
May 1, 2011
P1: The block in the middle of pitch 1 does look a bit sketchy, I wouldn't put pro behind it and wouldn't have stepped on it if I didn't have to. Otherwise kind of interesting-ish moves I suppose.
P2: Belaying at the tree isn't a terribly comfortable belay, but I think I would've had severe rope drag trying to link the first 2 pitches. I hate having to trust a pin, and I was able to sort of get a 00 Mastercam in next to the pin, but I didn't want to fall on either. Was suprised to have to pull the bulge on the crimpers on a 5.5-. Did Jackie the day before and found that much easier.
P3: Only 5.3, but I found it a tad awkward, a short run out spot, and not very exciting.
My girlfriend didn't like the climb whatsoever.
|By Kevin Heckeler|
From: West Sand Lake, New York
Apr 21, 2012
The block on P1 aint going anywhere. I even slung it for pro. I'm usually very cautious about such things, but it's wedged in there really good.
The crux move on P2 is height dependent. For a taller person reaching up left makes it 5.5, otherwise it's a crimpy/balancy move for the grade.
I combined P1 and 2, backcleaning when I could to eliminate rope drag while also ensuring to protect my follow. Just extend all your alpine runners.
P2 is not that long, and really combining P1 and2 puts you at the same height as P1 of Jackie and others in the area.
Pitch 3 is worth doing but the least interesting.
|By stephanie maltarich|
May 8, 2013
I took a lead fall from the second pitch last Saturday, busted my ankle, and now can't walk. I have a few comments maybe worth noting:
1. I fell from pitch two at the crux above the piton (from the tree, the piton to the left) THE PITON HELD MY LEAD FALL. Maybe shouldn't always be trusted, but just thought I'd throw it out there that it was legit. I took a good look at it before I clipped it and thought it looked ok. Agree with previous comment, I wasn't able to find any good gear after the piton...
2. Maybe I agree with whoever noted this climb rating is "height dependent" I am 5'4" and have lead several 5.6 climbs in the Gunks, but I was on two crimpy handholds and was trying to smear up with my foot. I couldn't reach any bigger holds. The rock on that crux is kind of polished and my foot slipped while I was smearing, and I took a whipper.
May 10, 2013
Hope it heals quickly, Stephanie!