The majority of the Quarry is west facing, so the seasons dictate when is the best time to climb. In the summer you can climb to noon, in the winter climb in the Agony Arch area in the morning and the rest of the crag in the afternoon. When it is really windy a few climbs in Slab City are protected. This is a popular area for dirt bikers; on the weekends it can get really busy and noisy. There are so many climbs here that crowds are sparse.
The granite is very high quality and has many unique features due to the early quarrying operations. A lot of the climbs have key holds reinforced with glue and more than a few climbs have holds drilled or chipped. Most of the routes are over 100 feet, some with as many as 24 bolts. This is mostly a sport climbing area, with chains or other suitable anchors at the top of almost every climb. Many routes can be done with 10-12 quickdraws, though.
This place is a great place to spend an afternoon, but due to its close proximity to Riverside and other surrounding cities, there is a lot of trash, junked cars, and random other pieces of junk that no one wants anymore. If you are looking for a beautiful, quiet place to climb, this is definitely not it. If you are looking for an afternoon of fun climbing on good rock this is your ticket.
The Quarry is on private property and driving into the quarry is not allowed - please park on the street. The land owner has a mutual understanding with the rock climbers and allows us to climb here. Please be respectful and keep the noise down, pick up your trash (I know it seems kinda pointless sometimes), and smile and be polite to the police officers when they come through. The more you do, the less likely it is for this place to be closed.
Although there are lots of fast food restaurants nearby the preferred choice is the nearby TJ's Tacos which is just north of the 60 Freeway on the right-hand side (as you drive to the crag) which has amazing tacos (try the carne asada tacos) for $1.35 they are amazing.
A lot of the route beta (# of bolts anchors at the top, and locations) are taken from the guide book, for the sole purpose of providing information and developing further interest in the area. Please contact Louie Anderson (firstname.lastname@example.org) to get a copy of the guide book. This are has been very well developed, and most of the cost has been paid for by the route developers. 100% of the proceeds of the guidebook go towards paying for bolts and anchors at the Riverside Quarry. The cost of the guide book is $19.95.
From Los Angeles and points west: Take the I-10 Freeway East, South on I-15, East on the 60. Exit Valley Way. Turn left; the cliffs are now visible to the NE. Turn right on Sierra, and then left on the dirt road after the housing development.
From Redlands and points east: Take the I-10 West to the I-215 South, then West on 60. Exit Valley Way/Arnold, turn right then another right on Sierra.
A suberb mid-length route that features two distinct crux sections - the lower one with it's balancy, steep slab in the orange section and the upper one with strenuous liebacks and underclings as you fight the pump to the anchors on huge holds.An area classic for the grade and one that should be on any climber's ticklist with it's varied climbing, stellar rock and thrilling exposure....[more]Browse More Classics in CA
On January 26-28th 2007 a Riverside Sheriffs Deputy had to pull his gun on a group of climbers that attempted to accost him, because he was telling them to move their vehicles to the street. The climbers were not arrested but now the Police are upset. In the past they had asked climbers to move their vehicles to the street, but now they will ticket climbers (and anyone else who drives in or parks at the Quarry). Those climbers have forever tarnished rock climbers image at the Quarry. For the past few years no one has been allowed to drive into the Quarry (due to a Riverside County Ordinance that bans vehicles from driving off-road unless they are in a ORV area). After this weekends incident the Riverside County Sheriffs Dept will be upping their patrols of the area. From now on NO ONE (including climbers) are allowed to drive into the Quarry. If you drive into the Quarry you will be fined $150. The land owner is very upset over the incidents this weekend and this could lead to bigger problems. Please park on the street. If you are concerned about break-in's park in the neighborhood, where you cars will be safer.
By Euan Cameron Administrator From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes Jan 17, 2007
April 2005 - 1st Edition $19.95 - 124 pages - 5.5” x 8.5” ISBN: 0-9766630-1-5 Louie Anderson Publisher
The Riverside Quarry offers superb climbing on steep, featured granite. Unlike other regional areas, the routes here are long, many of them over 100 feet in length. Not only will you find sport climbing, but a handful of excellent quality crack and aid climbs as well. All of this on a cliff that’s centrally located to all of Southern California, and with one of the shortest approaches around.
I visited this place for the first time last week. I want to thank whoever took the time to clean up the area at the base of the shield. The benches, rock and 4x4 retaining walls are wonderful. They make the area seem very nice in contrast to the rest of the quarry. If the climbers who did that ever need en extra guy to help out, i would be more than happy to pitch in. Thanks again for taking the time to clean up this wonderful spot.
An amazing area! It offers so many quality routes from easy moderate to fairly difficult. It's proximity to L.A. and warm winter sun offer a great day trip destination and a sweet alternative to Joshua Tree. Every route I have been on is quality and worth repeating. I've noticed the Quarry holds a stunning similarity to Rifle. It climbs almost exactly the same... just no polish and nothing is drastically steep.
OK - so after a very trying year in my personal life, I am becoming refocused on getting the next edition of the guidebook out. I'm hoping to have it done by the end of Summer (in time for next year's season), but that date may slip a bit depending on how much time I can devote to it. Rest assured though that I know it's much needed and getting it done is a priority to me.
More break ins. Today 2/28/10 a white suv was broken into with evidence that there was another break in but the car was gone already. It appears as the person stole their gps unit. Just another reminder to be careful not to leave anything of value insight or in your car period.
EDIT: A man-made break that claimed Redrum and The Sweetest Thing at the beginning of March. If you read my original post, rest assured this was intentional; apparently the rock had shown visible signs of movement so they took it down before anything bad happened. Thanks to Louie and everyone else who helps keep up the quarry.
This rock "fall" was intentionally done. That section of detached rock has been progressively shifting over the last few months. I and others had become aware of this and steps were taken to remove the rock at a time when no one was around.
The quarry as a whole is a work in progress and as loose rock is discovered it is either reinforced or removed. Sometimes (as in this case) routes are lost as a result. Rest assured that we will be cleaning and bolting the newly exposed rock, so there will be new routes on much more solid rock as a result.
In a continuing effort to make the routes at the Quarry as safe and solid as possible, I have removed many tons of expanding and loose flakes off the flake band in the middle of the routes Culture Shock, Choss Revolution, and Buzzkill.
Over the next week or so, I will clean the newly exposed rock further, replace and/or move bolts and move on to the next on a long list of "to do" items at the Quarry.
Please enjoy other routes while this work is being done.
Thanks for cleaning that choss around Choss Revolution Louie. I've been wanting to climb that route, but last time I was there some climbers were breaking off huge pieces of rocks on that route (I'm sure it was accidently and also purposeful on the obvious loose rocks). It felt to choss to climb seeing rock fleeing down to unexpected climbers. Thanks again for keeping it safe out there.
I was out there yesterday until about 2:00 pm. I left a static rope clove hitched to a few random bolts here and there in the middle of the affected routes, having brushed all the dirt off the exposed rock. I wanted to be able to just jug up and do the remaining work.
Returned this morning at 8:00 am to find that someone had stolen the rope and 6 or 7 draws.
The Quarry was crawling with people yesterday in this area, so someone either did this with everyone watching, or stayed around until the crag was empty and did their deed.
I did some crappy things when I was younger, so maybe this is just my dose of karma, but it really sucks to have things like this happen. Since development of the Quarry began, I've lost about a dozen ropes and untold numbers of draws and biners.
If anyone saw anything, I'd appreciate hearing about it (although I'm not expecting much...).
Does anyone know what the route is that's just right of the roof? It has ".11c" written in black on the wall. It seems to split with another climb, I'm thinking the 11c is the longer one that continues past a small roof and up into a vertical lieback. Really fun route, just curious what it's called. Also, does anyone know what the route 2 bolt lines to the right is? It's just left of the arete.. much harder than the first (presumably 11c) route I mentioned.
Finally received copies of the new guidebook. They will likely not be in stores for a month or so as inventory goes through my distributor to the bigger stores. In the mean time, and thereafter, interested people can purchase the book directly from me.
The book sells for $35 plus another $3 for shipping.
This book is a HUGE step up from the last edition and is printed in full color, with a large number of action photos and added features. There are 338 routes listed in this new book.
If you would like to order a copy, you can either paypal to my email@example.com email address or mail me a check. Please make sure to include your mailing address also.
- Louie Anderson PO Box 411 Silverado, CA 92676-0411 USA
By Euan Cameron Administrator From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes Jan 31, 2012
The new guide is really good. Well laid out and full of the usual info you want. It also has plenty of color pictures which really make you want to get out and climb at the quarry.
Just sent my check for the book today--super excited to do more climbing at the Quarry after my first visit on 1/29. I got a peek at the new guidebook from some folks there and it contains areas/routes that aren't posted here or on rc.com yet. Can't wait to have it in-hand!
Also: Anyone have information on clean-up efforts at the Quarry?
Climbed at Fun Factory yesterday (Jan 18, 2014). Found a lost/abandoned tiny dog. Would likely not have survived the hot dry day without our help. We've taken the dog in for now. If you lost your dog, please contact me with details and we'll go from there. Very cute, adorable thing...so sad finding it alone, dehydrated, and terrified.
PSA to my fellow climbers: break-ins at the Quarry are still a problem!
Someone smashed the back window of my Jeep yesterday (2/5/2014) while I was parked on Sierra. The thief (thieves) was clearly not a climber as he didn't touch my camera, rope or trad rack, and instead made a beeline for the local car stereo shop and some ghetto jewelry store in Fontana to try and make purchases with my debit card.
I will be parking well back in the neighborhood from here on out as an extra five-minute walk is well worth not fixing another car window for $230. Here's hoping others can learn and benefit from my bad experience...