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Riverside Quarry

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Agony Arch Area 
Alcove, The 
Anger Management Area 
Fun Factory, The 
Left of the Roof 
Metro Sector 
Right of the Roof 
Roof Area 
Rubble Row 
Schoolhouse Rock 
Shield, The 
Slab City 
Slander Sector 
Slide Zone 
Taboo Area 
Tall Wall, The 
Torture Machine Area 

Riverside Quarry  


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Elevation: 1,000'
Location: 34.0169, -117.4166 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 336,393
Administrators: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Isaac T. on Dec 30, 2006
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Original Sin, 11b, Riverside Quarry
Photo: Louie A...

Open, with restrictions: Park on the street MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The majority of the Quarry is west facing, so the seasons dictate when is the best time to climb. In the summer you can climb to noon, in the winter climb in the Agony Arch area in the morning and the rest of the crag in the afternoon. When it is really windy a few climbs in Slab City are protected. This is a popular area for dirt bikers; on the weekends it can get really busy and noisy. There are so many climbs here that crowds are sparse.

The granite is very high quality and has many unique features due to the early quarrying operations. A lot of the climbs have key holds reinforced with glue and more than a few climbs have holds drilled or chipped. Most of the routes are over 100 feet, some with as many as 24 bolts. This is mostly a sport climbing area, with chains or other suitable anchors at the top of almost every climb. Many routes can be done with 10-12 quickdraws, though.

This place is a great place to spend an afternoon, but due to its close proximity to Riverside and other surrounding cities, there is a lot of trash, junked cars, and random other pieces of junk that no one wants anymore. If you are looking for a beautiful, quiet place to climb, this is definitely not it. If you are looking for an afternoon of fun climbing on good rock this is your ticket.

Access 

The Quarry is on private property and driving into the quarry is not allowed - please park on the street. The land owner has a mutual understanding with the rock climbers and allows us to climb here. Please be respectful and keep the noise down, pick up your trash (I know it seems kinda pointless sometimes), and smile and be polite to the police officers when they come through. The more you do, the less likely it is for this place to be closed.

Food 

Although there are lots of fast food restaurants nearby the preferred choice is the nearby TJ's Tacos which is just north of the 60 Freeway on the right-hand side (as you drive to the crag) which has amazing tacos (try the carne asada tacos) for $1.35 they are amazing.

Guidebook 

A lot of the route beta (# of bolts anchors at the top, and locations) are taken from the guide book, for the sole purpose of providing information and developing further interest in the area. Please contact Louie Anderson (socalbolter@cox.net) to get a copy of the guide book. This are has been very well developed, and most of the cost has been paid for by the route developers. 100% of the proceeds of the guidebook go towards paying for bolts and anchors at the Riverside Quarry. The cost of the guide book is $19.95.

Getting There 

From Los Angeles and points west: Take the I-10 Freeway East, South on I-15, East on the 60. Exit Valley Way. Turn left; the cliffs are now visible to the NE. Turn right on Sierra, and then left on the dirt road after the housing development.

From Redlands and points east: Take the I-10 West to the I-215 South, then West on 60. Exit Valley Way/Arnold, turn right then another right on Sierra.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.6 miles from here

177 Total Routes

['4 Stars',19],['3 Stars',63],['2 Stars',70],['1 Star',24],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',5],['5.8',5],['5.9',10],['5.10',49],['5.11',50],['5.12',43],['5.13',10],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Riverside Quarry:
Uncle Ho   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Slander Sector
Flexercise   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Left of the Roof
Wonderstuff   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Torture Machine Area
Trundle Trophy   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Left of the Roof
Tangerine Dream   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Torture Machine Area
Agony Arch   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Agony Arch Area
Flesh and Blood   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 105'   Left of the Roof
Violator   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Taboo Area
American Dream   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 4 pitches, 250'   Roof Area
Nostalgia   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Roof Area
Leviathan   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Roof Area
Raging Raptor   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Left of the Roof
Forbidden Fruit   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 150'   Taboo Area
Survival of the Fittest   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Right of the Roof
Hanging by a Thread   5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Roof Area
Choss Goggles   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Left of the Roof
Taboo   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Taboo Area
La Bella Donna   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Right of the Roof
Kingpin   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Rubble Row
The Ultimate   5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Roof Area
Browse More Classics in Riverside Quarry

Featured Route For Riverside Quarry
2-18-12

Kingpin 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c  CA : Inland Empire : ... : Rubble Row
Hard crimping and an early crux right off the ground. The climbing remains sustained up to the first roof and the second crux. The most technical part of the climb is working up to and clipping the permenant chain draw, and involves a insecure finger lock. Then two more bolts of sustained climbing to the anchors. Probably the best and hardest 13a's at the quarry....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Riverside Quarry Slideshow Add Photo
Trailside sunflowers, Riverside Quarry
Trailside sunflowers, Riverside Quarry
Cambria Ortega on the popular Tangerine Dream (5.11a), Riverside Quarry. Photo by socalbolter.
Cambria Ortega on the popular Tangerine Dream (5.1...
Josh Higgins on Taboo (5.12c), Riverside Quarry.
Josh Higgins on Taboo (5.12c), Riverside Quarry.
Double Rainbow at the quarry...Riverside Quarry, the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow
Double Rainbow at the quarry...Riverside Quarry, t...
Chris makes a clip at the Riverside Quarry
Chris makes a clip at the Riverside Quarry
Brad Singer midway up Agony Arch (5.11b), Riverside Quarry
Brad Singer midway up Agony Arch (5.11b), Riversid...
The quarry is a multiple use recreation area.
The quarry is a multiple use recreation area.
A touch of color, Riverside Quarry
A touch of color, Riverside Quarry
Riverside Quarry panorama
Riverside Quarry panorama
Photo by Steve Cox
Photo by Steve Cox
Checker Fiddleneck (Amsinckia tessellata), Riverside Quarry
Checker Fiddleneck (Amsinckia tessellata), Riversi...
Why, when its only a 4 minute walk?
Why, when its only a 4 minute walk?
Tangerine Dream rap.
BETA PHOTO: Tangerine Dream rap.
A partial view - Slab City in the foreground extending to The Alcove in the distance, Riverside Quarry
A partial view - Slab City in the foreground exten...
One of the few cracks at the Quarry
BETA PHOTO: One of the few cracks at the Quarry
California Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum), Riverside Quarry
California Buckwheat (Eriogonum fasciculatum), Riv...
This original guide had 24 climbs and most were nailing routes!
This original guide had 24 climbs and most were na...
Riverside Quarry overview showing the various sectors (double click for better viewing).
BETA PHOTO: Riverside Quarry overview showing the various sect...
Art comes in all forms...
Art comes in all forms...
The Slide Zone Area
BETA PHOTO: The Slide Zone Area
Let the fun begin.
Let the fun begin.
TJ Tacos - for all your pre/post send calories.
TJ Tacos - for all your pre/post send calories.
Donner Way & Sierra Avenue
Donner Way & Sierra Avenue
One of two vehicles broken into on 5/03/09. A visual reminder to not leave valuables in your vehicle.
One of two vehicles broken into on 5/03/09. A visu...

Show All 37 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Riverside Quarry Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 2, 2014
By Victor Medeiros
Jul 11, 2014
CONDITION REPORT 
As of today, 7/11 at around 6:30pm, I cruised by the quarry to find that it is enclosed by a chainlink fence. I climbed here on Wed evening so I was quite shocked to find this.

I've recently moved back to the area and have been climbing here frequently since. I've had a blast thus far, following property rules, and literally just bought the most recent guidebook. That being said, I'm wondering if this is an access issue or an occassional closure for clean up or whatever it may be.

My partner and I really enjoy climbing here so any info would be useful. Thanks everyone.
By Isaac T.
From: Rockville, MD
Jan 17, 2007
On January 26-28th 2007 a Riverside Sheriffs Deputy had to pull his gun on a group of climbers that attempted to accost him, because he was telling them to move their vehicles to the street. The climbers were not arrested but now the Police are upset. In the past they had asked climbers to move their vehicles to the street, but now they will ticket climbers (and anyone else who drives in or parks at the Quarry). Those climbers have forever tarnished rock climbers image at the Quarry. For the past few years no one has been allowed to drive into the Quarry (due to a Riverside County Ordinance that bans vehicles from driving off-road unless they are in a ORV area). After this weekends incident the Riverside County Sheriffs Dept will be upping their patrols of the area. From now on NO ONE (including climbers) are allowed to drive into the Quarry. If you drive into the Quarry you will be fined $150. The land owner is very upset over the incidents this weekend and this could lead to bigger problems. Please park on the street. If you are concerned about break-in's park in the neighborhood, where you cars will be safer.
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jan 17, 2007
From the website maximuspress.com/maximus-press...

Climbers’ Guide:
Riverside Quarry
Louie Anderson

April 2005 - 1st Edition
$19.95 - 124 pages - 5.5” x 8.5”
ISBN: 0-9766630-1-5
Louie Anderson Publisher

The Riverside Quarry offers superb climbing on steep, featured granite. Unlike other regional areas, the routes here are long, many of them over 100 feet in length. Not only will you find sport climbing, but a handful of excellent quality crack and aid climbs as well. All of this on a cliff that’s centrally located to all of Southern California, and with one of the shortest approaches around.
By socalbolter
From: Silverado, CA
Apr 13, 2008
I'm getting started working on the new edition of the guidebook. The first book went to press when the area was still somewhat new and not that popular.

Now that the Riverside Quarry is one of the more popular sport climbing areas in SoCal, I'd like to get some feedback on the ratings so that this next edition will be as accurate as possible.

Feel free to email comments directly to me at socalbolter@cox.net or post them here (or both). I'm looking for feedback on difficulty ratings and also quality ratings (5-star scale).

Also, if you have found any mistakes in the current book, I'd appreciate a heads up.

I also plan to include even more actions shots in the next book and will likely print the book with color photos. If you have any good climbing shots, I'd like to hear from you.

Thanks much,

- Louie
By Nate "Mustang" Johnson
From: Lake Elsinore, CA
Jun 4, 2008
I visited this place for the first time last week. I want to thank whoever took the time to clean up the area at the base of the shield. The benches, rock and 4x4 retaining walls are wonderful. They make the area seem very nice in contrast to the rest of the quarry. If the climbers who did that ever need en extra guy to help out, i would be more than happy to pitch in. Thanks again for taking the time to clean up this wonderful spot.

-Nate
By C Miller
Administrator
Jun 4, 2008
You can thank Louie Anderson (socalbolter) for the drive and vision to make the Quarry what it is today. There are clean-ups/maintenance days now and then, so keep your ear to the ground.
By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 8, 2009
Taller than the pictures here might suggest
By bill12345
Jul 15, 2009
hey are any parts of the quarry able to be toproped? i dont have a partner right now and am trying to find a place where i can set up a solo belay device. thanks!
By C Miller
Administrator
Jul 15, 2009
The Agony Arch Area is really the only area that can safely and easily accessed for TR'ing without leading.
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Sep 8, 2009
Riverside Quarry; developed by Mark Smith and Richard Jensen. And a few others. Late 70's early 80's.
By tobin sanson
From: Carbondale, CO
Dec 29, 2009
An amazing area! It offers so many quality routes from easy moderate to fairly difficult. It's proximity to L.A. and warm winter sun offer a great day trip destination and a sweet alternative to Joshua Tree. Every route I have been on is quality and worth repeating. I've noticed the Quarry holds a stunning similarity to Rifle. It climbs almost exactly the same... just no polish and nothing is drastically steep.
By socalbolter
From: Silverado, CA
Jan 25, 2010
OK - so after a very trying year in my personal life, I am becoming refocused on getting the next edition of the guidebook out. I'm hoping to have it done by the end of Summer (in time for next year's season), but that date may slip a bit depending on how much time I can devote to it. Rest assured though that I know it's much needed and getting it done is a priority to me.

Be safe out there, and have fun!

- Louie
By blane
From: huntington beach, ca
Feb 28, 2010
More break ins. Today 2/28/10 a white suv was broken into with evidence that there was another break in but the car was gone already. It appears as the person stole their gps unit. Just another reminder to be careful not to leave anything of value insight or in your car period.
By B.S. Luther
From: Walnut, CA
Mar 3, 2010
EDIT: A man-made break that claimed Redrum and The Sweetest Thing at the beginning of March. If you read my original post, rest assured this was intentional; apparently the rock had shown visible signs of movement so they took it down before anything bad happened. Thanks to Louie and everyone else who helps keep up the quarry.
By socalbolter
From: Silverado, CA
Mar 6, 2010
This rock "fall" was intentionally done. That section of detached rock has been progressively shifting over the last few months. I and others had become aware of this and steps were taken to remove the rock at a time when no one was around.

The quarry as a whole is a work in progress and as loose rock is discovered it is either reinforced or removed. Sometimes (as in this case) routes are lost as a result. Rest assured that we will be cleaning and bolting the newly exposed rock, so there will be new routes on much more solid rock as a result.
By socalbolter
From: Silverado, CA
Jan 13, 2011
In a continuing effort to make the routes at the Quarry as safe and solid as possible, I have removed many tons of expanding and loose flakes off the flake band in the middle of the routes Culture Shock, Choss Revolution, and Buzzkill.

Over the next week or so, I will clean the newly exposed rock further, replace and/or move bolts and move on to the next on a long list of "to do" items at the Quarry.

Please enjoy other routes while this work is being done.

Thank you,

- Louie
By RNclimber
From: Riverside, Ca
Jan 15, 2011
Thanks for cleaning that choss around Choss Revolution Louie. I've been wanting to climb that route, but last time I was there some climbers were breaking off huge pieces of rocks on that route (I'm sure it was accidently and also purposeful on the obvious loose rocks). It felt to choss to climb seeing rock fleeing down to unexpected climbers. Thanks again for keeping it safe out there.

-Jan
By socalbolter
From: Silverado, CA
Jan 16, 2011
So the story takes a turn for the worse:

I was out there yesterday until about 2:00 pm. I left a static rope clove hitched to a few random bolts here and there in the middle of the affected routes, having brushed all the dirt off the exposed rock. I wanted to be able to just jug up and do the remaining work.

Returned this morning at 8:00 am to find that someone had stolen the rope and 6 or 7 draws.

The Quarry was crawling with people yesterday in this area, so someone either did this with everyone watching, or stayed around until the crag was empty and did their deed.

I did some crappy things when I was younger, so maybe this is just my dose of karma, but it really sucks to have things like this happen. Since development of the Quarry began, I've lost about a dozen ropes and untold numbers of draws and biners.

If anyone saw anything, I'd appreciate hearing about it (although I'm not expecting much...).

- Louie
By B.S. Luther
From: Walnut, CA
Oct 1, 2011
Does anyone know what the route is that's just right of the roof? It has ".11c" written in black on the wall. It seems to split with another climb, I'm thinking the 11c is the longer one that continues past a small roof and up into a vertical lieback. Really fun route, just curious what it's called. Also, does anyone know what the route 2 bolt lines to the right is? It's just left of the arete.. much harder than the first (presumably 11c) route I mentioned.
By socalbolter
From: Silverado, CA
Jan 31, 2012
Finally received copies of the new guidebook. They will likely not be in stores for a month or so as inventory goes through my distributor to the bigger stores. In the mean time, and thereafter, interested people can purchase the book directly from me.

The book sells for $35 plus another $3 for shipping.

This book is a HUGE step up from the last edition and is printed in full color, with a large number of action photos and added features. There are 338 routes listed in this new book.

If you would like to order a copy, you can either paypal to my louieanderson@live.com email address or mail me a check. Please make sure to include your mailing address also.

Thank you,

- Louie Anderson
PO Box 411
Silverado, CA 92676-0411
USA
By Euan Cameron
Administrator
From: Redlands and Mammoth Lakes
Jan 31, 2012
The new guide is really good. Well laid out and full of the usual info you want. It also has plenty of color pictures which really make you want to get out and climb at the quarry.
By andiran
Feb 1, 2012
Just sent my check for the book today--super excited to do more climbing at the Quarry after my first visit on 1/29. I got a peek at the new guidebook from some folks there and it contains areas/routes that aren't posted here or on rc.com yet. Can't wait to have it in-hand!

Also: Anyone have information on clean-up efforts at the Quarry?
By Gear Co-op
Feb 5, 2012
We've got the new guidebook at the Gear Co-op in Costa Mesa. See our Facebook page for location and info: www.facebook.com/gearcoop

Free membership gives you 10% off regularly priced items every day.
By Eric Foss
Dec 16, 2013
Video Climbing Guide for Riverside Quarry.


By Riv and Rock
Jan 19, 2014
Climbed at Fun Factory yesterday (Jan 18, 2014). Found a lost/abandoned tiny dog. Would likely not have survived the hot dry day without our help. We've taken the dog in for now. If you lost your dog, please contact me with details and we'll go from there. Very cute, adorable thing...so sad finding it alone, dehydrated, and terrified.
By Morgan Diefenbach
From: Forest Falls, CA
Feb 6, 2014
PSA to my fellow climbers: break-ins at the Quarry are still a problem!

Someone smashed the back window of my Jeep yesterday (2/5/2014) while I was parked on Sierra. The thief (thieves) was clearly not a climber as he didn't touch my camera, rope or trad rack, and instead made a beeline for the local car stereo shop and some ghetto jewelry store in Fontana to try and make purchases with my debit card.

I will be parking well back in the neighborhood from here on out as an extra five-minute walk is well worth not fixing another car window for $230. Here's hoping others can learn and benefit from my bad experience...
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Apr 28, 2014
Courtesy of Joe Cruz:

Riverside Rock Quarry Rock Fall Incident (04/26/14)
This past Saturday, April 26, 2014, there was a rock fall incident at the Riverside Rock Quarry. No one was injured, but there was a huge potential for injury due to the inconsiderate actions of unknown individuals.

There was some light rain over night, so only about 12 climbers were on the main wall when the incident occurred. Around midday a large rock came off the top of the cliff. It went mostly unnoticed by the climbers on the right side of the wall, but it came close to climbers near Balrog. 5 minutes later more rock fell to the left of Trundle.

Within about 10-15 minutes, four sizeable pieces of rock came off the cliff on various spots, moving north from where the first piece came off. These were not small rocks and any of them could have caused serious injury, and possibly death, to any climber if hit. After the fourth piece shattered across a large area, a group of climbers ran to the top to see who was throwing the rocks off.

When all was said and done, they left and we weren't able to definitively say who was throwing rocks off the top. About six feet from the cliff, we found a hole where a piece of rock was pulled out of the ground and rolled off. There was evidence of freshly chipped rock below where the piece was missing leaving no doubt in our minds that someone intentionally rolled them off the cliff.

A couple climbers talked with some of the off-roaders that frequent the area to explain what had happened, see if they saw anything, asked that they let people know the danger, and that this practice should be discontinued. If it had been a normal day at the Riverside Rock Quarry, with more than 12 people, the rock fall could have caused more damage. We were lucky that only 12 people were in the vicinity that day.

This is the part where I write the moral of the story, but I think you all know better. Be careful out there.
By quendalls
Aug 2, 2014
Arrived at the quarry today (8/2) and as we walked up, the sheriff was pulling into the quarry. We flagged him down and asked about the fence...he said the fence is to prevent the off road vehicles from coming in. He said climbers are still allowed but just don't park inside the fence.