Slab to a cool roof pull.
Currently a few bolts lead to the corner under the roof. There is no bolt in the roof itself making this a very dangerous lead in which if you fall you will come rocketing down onto the slab. In addition the left side of the roof to which the bolts lead to is very rotten and I'm sure parts will break if reefed on.
I TR'd the route but busted slightly right (See pics) before the last slab bolt and pulled on good fairly solid jugs over.
To the right of "Pretty Piece of Flesh" is an impressive roof.
Bolts but NEEDS ONE MORE BOLT IN THE ROOF!
My suggestion for whomever bolted this is to chop the last bolt on the slab (and patch of course), move it right and put another bolt in the roof. I marked a spot I thought was good with chalk and included a pic posted here.
Jul 1, 2010
Looked like new bolts? Anyone care to claim this one?
|By Chris treggE|
From: Madison, WI
Jul 2, 2010
Yes, this is Steve's route. I emailed him to see if he would like to comment or update anything.
Jul 3, 2010
Steve bolted this. We've both climbed it, and agree that it's 5.10R. Can't put in another bolt - rock is too soft. So I placed a cam with a long sling and then just hoped that nothing would break.
Jul 4, 2010
Will Steve take another look? Albeit not the intended line, where I marked a spot would take a glue in nicely.
|By Joi-Bobby Laos|
Aug 19, 2010
the start of the roof has a really positive shelf section, a little bit of confidence (or ignorance) goes a long way.
Oct 12, 2011
I believe Steve told me that the name of this route is Riverboat Gambler. Gear in the roof section is key.