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 ADVANCED
Above Anthrax
Select Route:
Climb with a View T 
Late Night Chalk Show S 
Ponyboy S 
Pretty Piece of Flesh S 
Riverboat Gambler S 
Solo Crack T,TR 
Who is Bernd Arnold? S 

Riverboat Gambler 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Steve Tucker
Page Views: 1,255
Submitted By: Tradoholic on Jul 1, 2010

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Hand traverse on Steve Tucker's (yet to be named?)...

Description 

Slab to a cool roof pull.

Currently a few bolts lead to the corner under the roof. There is no bolt in the roof itself making this a very dangerous lead in which if you fall you will come rocketing down onto the slab. In addition the left side of the roof to which the bolts lead to is very rotten and I'm sure parts will break if reefed on.

I TR'd the route but busted slightly right (See pics) before the last slab bolt and pulled on good fairly solid jugs over.

Location 

To the right of "Pretty Piece of Flesh" is an impressive roof.

Protection 

Bolts but NEEDS ONE MORE BOLT IN THE ROOF!

My suggestion for whomever bolted this is to chop the last bolt on the slab (and patch of course), move it right and put another bolt in the roof. I marked a spot I thought was good with chalk and included a pic posted here.


Photos of Riverboat Gambler Slideshow Add Photo
Ted dangling on Steve's route.
Ted dangling on Steve's route.
Put a bolt here.
BETA PHOTO: Put a bolt here.
Goes up the slab on the left then a little right o...
BETA PHOTO: Goes up the slab on the left then a little right o...
Skinner pulling the roof.
Skinner pulling the roof.
Skinner on the good jug over the roof.
Skinner on the good jug over the roof.
The roof
The roof

Comments on Riverboat Gambler Add Comment
Show which comments
By Tradoholic
Jul 1, 2010

Looked like new bolts? Anyone care to claim this one?
By Paul Campbell
From: Waukesha, WI
Jul 2, 2010

Only thing I can think of is the comment by Khengen on this page: mountainproject.com/v/wisconsi... Where he talks about Steve Tucker bolting a new roof.
By Chris treggE
Administrator
From: Madison, WI
Jul 2, 2010

Yes, this is Steve's route. I emailed him to see if he would like to comment or update anything.
By computerskillclimbing.
Jul 3, 2010

Steve bolted this. We've both climbed it, and agree that it's 5.10R. Can't put in another bolt - rock is too soft. So I placed a cam with a long sling and then just hoped that nothing would break.
By Tradoholic
Jul 4, 2010

Will Steve take another look? Albeit not the intended line, where I marked a spot would take a glue in nicely.
By Joi-Bobby Laos
Aug 19, 2010

the start of the roof has a really positive shelf section, a little bit of confidence (or ignorance) goes a long way.
By EB
From: Winona
Oct 12, 2011

I believe Steve told me that the name of this route is Riverboat Gambler. Gear in the roof section is key.